History & Heritage of Biarritz
The Queen of Beaches and the Beach of Kings
Biarritz, elegantly positioned on France's southwestern Basque coast, earned its reputation as "The Queen of Beaches and the Beach of Kings" during the 19th century when Empress Eugénie de Montijo, wife of Napoleon III, transformed this fishing village into Europe's most fashionable seaside resort. The imperial couple's passion for Biarritz attracted European royalty, aristocrats, and wealthy industrialists, who built magnificent villas and palaces overlooking the Atlantic. This legacy of elegance combines with Biarritz's natural advantages - dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, and exceptional surfing conditions - to create a unique destination that blends aristocratic heritage with contemporary cool.
Birthplace of European Surfing
While Biarritz's aristocratic heritage established its glamour, its modern identity was shaped by the 1957 film "The Sun Also Rises," which introduced California surfers to Biarritz's perfect waves. Soon after, American screenwriter Peter Viertel brought the first Malibu board to Biarritz, beginning Europe's surfing revolution. The Côte des Basques beach became the continent's first surfing hotspot, attracting pioneers who established Biarritz as Europe's surfing capital. Today, this dual identity defines Biarritz: the sophistication of Belle Époque architecture and upscale boutiques coexists with a laid-back surf culture, creating a unique atmosphere where visitors might see a wetsuit-clad surfer carrying a board past the luxury stores of Avenue Édouard VII, or enjoy fresh oysters at a beach shack steps from a palace hotel.
Architectural Tapestry
Biarritz's architecture tells the story of its transformation from fishing village to royal resort. The historic fishing port of Port des Pêcheurs preserves traditional Basque houses with colorful shutters. The Belle Époque period left its mark with extravagant villas like Villa Belza clinging to cliffs, and the magnificent Hôtel du Palais, originally built as a palace for Empress Eugénie. The 1930s brought Art Deco elegance, visible in buildings like the Casino Municipal. Post-war architecture includes the striking Rocher de la Vierge rock formation connected by Gustave Eiffel's footbridge. This architectural diversity, set against the dramatic backdrop of rocky headlands and Atlantic waves, creates Biarritz's distinctive visual character that has attracted artists, writers, and photographers for generations.
Historical Highlights
Imperial Connection: Empress Eugénie's summer residence became Hôtel du Palais
Surfing History: Where modern European surfing began in late 1950s
Architecture: Mix of Basque, Belle Époque, Art Deco, and contemporary
Royal Visitors: European royalty including Queen Victoria, Edward VII
Cultural Legacy: Inspired artists and writers including Picasso and Hemingway
First Impressions of the Basque Coast Jewel
My introduction to Biarritz came from the coastal road, the first glimpse of the Atlantic appearing between villas perched on cliffs. Descending into town, I was struck by the elegant harmony of architecture and landscape. At the Grande Plage, the magnificent Hôtel du Palais stood as a testament to imperial ambition, its creamy façade glowing in the afternoon sun. Surfers rode waves just steps from where 19th-century aristocracy took sea baths. Walking along the cliff path to Rocher de la Vierge, I crossed Gustave Eiffel's footbridge to the rock crowned with the Virgin Mary statue, watching waves crash against the rocks below. The contrast between natural power and human elegance defined Biarritz: wild Atlantic surf alongside manicured gardens, surf shops next to luxury boutiques. As sunset approached, the entire coast turned golden, and I understood why this place captivated royalty and surfers alike. The sound of waves mixed with church bells and seagull cries created Biarritz's unique symphony.
Travel Guide
Practical Information
| Information | Details |
|---|---|
| Best Time to Visit | May-October for beach and surfing July-August for full activity but most crowded September for warm water and fewer visitors Winter for storm watching and lower prices |
| Getting There | Flight: Biarritz Pays Basque Airport with European connections Train: TGV from Paris (5 hours), regional from Bordeaux Car: 2 hours from Bordeaux via A63 Bus: Regional coaches from Spanish and French cities |
| Getting Around | Walking: Center and beaches easily walkable Bus: Local network covers entire area Bike: Excellent cycling paths along coast Parking: Limited in center, use park-and-ride facilities |
| Tourist Office | Square d'Ixelles, near Grande Plage Information on surfing, events, guided tours Multi-language assistance available |
| Suggested Stay | Weekend: 2-3 days for highlights Recommended: 4-5 days for beaches and exploration Extended: Week+ for surfing, relaxation, and day trips |
Essential Tips
Beach Selection: Grande Plage for swimming, Côte des Basques for surfing
Tides: Check times - some beaches disappear at high tide
Reservations: Book restaurants in advance during peak season
Parking: Use park-and-ride, center parking is limited and expensive
Combination: Mix beach time with cultural visits and shopping
Must-See Sites in Biarritz
Rocher de la Vierge & Eiffel Footbridge
Hôtel du Palais Imperial Residence
Côte des Basques Surfing Beach
Coastal Walk from Lighthouse to Virgin Rock
I walked Biarritz's spectacular coastal path from Phare de Biarritz lighthouse to Rocher de la Vierge, approximately 3 kilometers of breathtaking scenery. Starting at the lighthouse, I climbed to the viewing platform for panoramic views of the entire Basque coast from Spain to the Landes forest. Descending along the cliff path, I passed Villa Belza, a fairy-tale castle clinging to rocks, and continued to the Plateau de l'Atalaye, where fishermen once watched for whales. Here, the Museum of the Sea offered a fascinating diversion with its aquarium and seal pool. Continuing along the path carved into cliffs, I reached Rocher de la Vierge, connected to land by Gustave Eiffel's metal footbridge. Crossing to the rock, I watched waves crashing through the natural arch below. The walk concluded at Port des Pêcheurs, the historic fishing port with colorful boats and traditional restaurants. The entire route took about two hours with stops, revealing Biarritz's dramatic geology and the seamless blend of natural beauty and human craftsmanship that defines this coast.
Travel Experiences
Surfing Lessons and Board Rental
Thalassotherapy and Wellness Spas
Golf with Atlantic Views
Unique Biarritz Experiences
- Surfing Lessons: Learn to surf at Europe's surfing birthplace
- Thalassotherapy: Seawater treatments at original French thalasso centers
- Golf: Play on historic courses with ocean views
- Food Tours: Guided tours of markets and specialty food shops
- Art Visits: Studios of local artists and ceramicists
- Whale Watching: Boat trips to spot marine life (seasonal)
- Cooking Classes: Learn to prepare Basque specialties
Learning to Surf at Côte des Basques
I joined a beginner surfing lesson at Côte des Basques, where European surfing began. Meeting at a surf school overlooking the beach, our instructor Fabien (a former competitor) began with theory on the sand: positioning on the board, paddling techniques, and the all-important pop-up. The water was cooler than expected, but the wetsuit kept me warm. My first attempts were comical - mostly washing machine tumbles in the whitewater. But Fabien's patient coaching paid off, and on my fifth attempt, I caught a small wave and stood for three glorious seconds before gracefully (or not) collapsing. Between attempts, floating beyond the break, Fabien shared stories of surfing pioneers who discovered these waves. Two hours flew by, and though I was far from proficient, the thrill of catching that first wave was unforgettable. After the lesson, we joined other surfers at a beach shack for locally brewed beer, comparing wipeout stories. The experience connected me to Biarritz's essential spirit - that blend of athletic challenge and laid-back camaraderie that defines surf culture here.
Tips & Notes
Beach & Surfing Etiquette
- Respect surfing zones and priorities - surfers have right of way on waves
- Swim in designated areas between flags when lifeguards are present
- Don't leave valuables unattended on beaches
- Use showers to rinse sand before entering town or shops
- Follow flag system for swimming conditions
Practical Considerations
- Beach footwear recommended - some beaches have coarse sand or stones
- Carry layers - weather changes quickly, evenings can be cool
- Learn basic French or Basque phrases - appreciated by locals
- Make restaurant reservations, especially in summer
- Check tide times for beach visits and coastal walks
Surfing Tips for Beginners
Lessons: Essential for safety and proper technique
Timing: Mid-tide usually best for beginner waves
Equipment: Rent from reputable schools with insurance
Beach Choice: Côte des Basques or Grande Plage for learners
Conditions: Check surf reports for wave height and wind
Frequently Asked Questions
Beach recommendations:
- Grande Plage: Main swimming beach, lifeguards in season, central
- Plage Miramar: Sheltered, good for families, near Hôtel du Palais
- Côte des Basques: Historic surfing beach, consistent waves, scenic
- Plage Marbella: Naturist section, surfable waves, more local
- Port Vieux: Small sheltered cove, good for children, picturesque
- Plage de la Milady: South of center, family-friendly, less crowded
- Recommendation: Grande Plage for swimming, Côte des Basques for surfing
Thalassotherapy information:
- Definition: Therapeutic use of seawater, seaweed, and marine climate
- Origin: Biarritz has some of France's oldest thalasso centers
- Treatments: Seawater pools, hydrotherapy, algae wraps, massages
- Benefits: Circulation, relaxation, skin conditions, recovery
- Centers: Several in Biarritz including at luxury hotels
- Sessions: From 2-hour treatments to multi-day programs
- Recommendation: Even a single session provides relaxation benefits
Cost considerations:
- Accommodation: Wide range from luxury palaces to affordable options
- Dining: Both Michelin-starred restaurants and casual eateries
- Activities: Beaches free, surfing lessons reasonable, golf expensive
- Transport: Walkable center reduces transport costs
- Shopping: Both luxury boutiques and regular stores
- Season: Prices significantly higher in July-August
- Recommendation: Possible to enjoy Biarritz on different budgets
Day trip options:
- Saint-Jean-de-Luz: Charming fishing port, excellent seafood
- Bayonne: Historic capital of French Basque Country
- Spanish border: Hondarribia and San Sebastián easily accessible
- Pyrenees: Mountain villages and hiking within 1-2 hours
- Espelette: Famous for dried red peppers, picturesque village
- Bidart: Next coastal town, beautiful beaches, less crowded
- Rhune: Mountain with cog railway and panoramic views
Local Cuisine & Dining
Basque Pintxos and Small Plates
Fresh Atlantic Seafood
Basque Cheeses and Charcuterie
Biarritz & Basque Country Specialties
- Pintxos: Basque version of tapas, often on bread with skewer
- Axoa: Veal stew with Espelette pepper
- Piperade: Pepper, tomato, and onion dish with eggs
- Marmitako: Tuna and potato stew
- Gateau Basque: Traditional cake with cherry or pastry cream filling
- Ossau-Iraty: Famous Basque sheep's milk cheese
- Jambon de Bayonne: Cured ham similar to Spanish jamón
- Piment d'Espelette: Dried red pepper, AOC protected
Recommended Restaurants in Biarritz
| Restaurant | Location | Specialty | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Les Rosiers | Near Grande Plage | Michelin-starred, creative Basque cuisine | €€€€ |
| Le Café du Commerce | Port des Pêcheurs | Fresh seafood with port views, traditional | €€-€€€ |
| Bar du Marché | Halles de Biarritz market | Pintxos and small plates, lively atmosphere | €€ |
| Le Clos Basque | Residential area | Traditional Basque home cooking | €€€ |
| Miremont | Grande Plage front | Historic tearoom, pastries, sea views | €€ |
Pintxos Tour Through Biarritz
I explored Biarritz's culinary scene through a pintxos tour, beginning at the Halles market where Bar du Marché offered an impressive display of small creations on bread. I chose three: bacalao (salt cod) with pil-pil sauce, jamón with piquillo pepper, and crab with avocado. Each was a perfect bite, accompanied by a glass of txakoli, the local slightly sparkling white wine. Next, at a tiny bar near the church, I tried gildas (skewers of anchovy, olive, and pepper) and tortilla de patatas. The bartender explained that true pintxos are meant to be eaten standing at the bar, not sitting at tables. My third stop specialized in seafood: grilled octopus, squid in ink, and clams marinière. Each bar had its own character, from traditional wood-paneled to contemporary design. The tour concluded with dessert pintxos: gateau Basque and canutillos (cream horns). Walking between bars allowed me to see different neighborhoods while enjoying the social ritual of pintxos hopping. The experience perfectly captured the Basque approach to food: high quality, sociable, and deeply connected to local ingredients and traditions.
Accommodation Recommendations
| Hotel/Accommodation | Type | Location | Special Features | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hôtel du Palais | Palace Hotel | Grande Plage front | Former imperial palace, spa, Michelin restaurant, pool | €€€€ |
| Hotel de Silhouette | Boutique Luxury | Historic center | 16th-century building, designer interiors, spa | €€€€ |
| Hotel Edouard VII | Mid-Range | Near beach and casino | Belle Époque building, sea views, good value | €€-€€€ |
| Ibis Styles Biarritz | Modern Comfort | Near railway station | Contemporary design, family rooms, parking | €€ |
| Hotel de la Plage | Beachfront | Port Vieux beach | Direct beach access, simple charm, family-run | €€-€€€ |
| Vacation Apartments | Self-Catering | Various locations | Full apartments, ideal for families or longer stays | €€-€€€ |
Accommodation Tips
Location: Near Grande Plage for beach, near Halles for food scene
Views: Sea view rooms command significant premium
Parking: Limited in center - check hotel parking availability
Character: Historic hotels have more charm but may have smaller rooms
Booking: Essential for summer, many require minimum stays in peak season
Staying at the Imperial Palace Hotel
I splurged on a night at Hôtel du Palais, Empress Eugénie's former summer palace on Grande Plage. Entering the grand lobby with its crystal chandeliers and marble floors felt like stepping into a different era. My room, though not one of the lavish suites, had a balcony with panoramic sea views. The hotel's history was palpable: portraits of the imperial couple, the original chapel Eugénie built, the winter garden where she took tea. I swam in the seawater pool, its water drawn directly from the ocean and heated to perfect temperature. Before dinner, I joined the hotel's historical tour, learning about royal visits and famous guests. Dinner at the hotel's Michelin-starred restaurant was exceptional, with each course featuring local ingredients presented as works of art. After dinner, I walked on the beach under moonlight, the hotel illuminated behind me. While expensive, the experience offered more than luxury - it was immersion in Biarritz's royal history, with service that made me feel, if only for a night, like aristocracy. Waking to sunrise over the Atlantic from that historic balcony was worth every euro.
Travel Itineraries
Weekend in Biarritz
Day 1: Coastal walk → Museum of the Sea → Beach time → Evening pintxos tour
Day 2: Morning surfing lesson → Lunch at beach restaurant → Afternoon shopping → Sunset at Rocher de la Vierge
Five-Day Biarritz Experience
Day 1: Arrival and coastal orientation → Beach time → Seafood dinner
Day 2: Surfing lesson → Thalassotherapy treatment → Gourmet dinner
Day 3: Day trip to Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Bayonne
Day 4: Golf or hiking → Cooking class → Evening at casino
Day 5: Market visit → Last beach time → Farewell dinner
Week-Long Basque Coast Exploration
Days 1-3: Biarritz as above
Day 4: Day trip to San Sebastián, Spain
Day 5: Pyrenees mountain villages and hiking
Day 6: Espelette and interior Basque villages
Day 7: Relaxation in Biarritz, last purchases, departure
Saint-Jean-de-Luz Day Trip
San Sebastián Spain Excursion
Pyrenees Mountains Day Trip
My Biarritz Surf and Culture Week
I spent a week in Biarritz balancing surf and culture. Days 1-2 focused on surfing: morning lessons at Côte des Basques, afternoons practicing, evenings soaking tired muscles in thalassotherapy. Day 3 was cultural: visiting the Museum of the Sea, taking the historical walking tour, and exploring the Asian Art Museum. Day 4 I took the train to San Sebastián for pintxos and architecture, returning in the evening. Day 5 was a road trip to interior Basque villages: Espelette for peppers, Ainhoa (one of France's most beautiful villages), and the Grottes de Sare caves. Day 6 I indulged in Biarritz's food scene: market visit, cooking class, and Michelin-starred dinner. My final day combined favorite elements: morning surf session, afternoon at Hôtel du Palais for tea, sunset walk to Rocher de la Vierge. The week offered perfect balance - physical activity, cultural enrichment, culinary exploration, and relaxation. Biarritz's compact size meant everything was accessible, and the efficient transport made day trips easy. The experience showcased why Biarritz remains irresistible: that unique alchemy of Atlantic energy, Basque culture, and French elegance.
Transportation Tips
Train: Efficient connections to Bayonne, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Spain
Bus: Good local network, connects beaches and towns
Walking: Best way to experience center and coastal paths
Bike: Excellent coastal cycle paths, bike rental widely available
Car: Useful for day trips, but parking challenging in center