History & Significance
Ancient Roman Glory
The Arles Amphitheatre (Amphithéâtre d'Arles) is one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world, built around 90 AD during the reign of Emperor Domitian. Located in the heart of Provence, it was constructed just 20 years after the Colosseum in Rome, accommodating approximately 20,000 spectators (compared to Rome's 50,000) and measuring 136 meters long, 109 meters wide, and 21 meters high. The amphitheater was the center of public entertainment in the Roman colony of Arelate, hosting gladiatorial combats, chariot races, and animal hunts. Its elliptical design and sophisticated architecture demonstrate advanced Roman engineering, with 60 arches on two levels, an efficient crowd circulation system, and a retractable awning (velarium) to protect spectators from the sun.
Medieval Transformation
Following the fall of the Roman Empire, the amphitheater was transformed into a fortified village, with three defensive towers added and the arena filled with over 200 houses and two chapels. For centuries, it functioned as a self-contained neighborhood housing approximately 1,000 people, with the ancient structure providing walls and foundations for medieval dwellings. This unusual adaptation likely saved the monument from being quarried for stone. In 1825, French writer Prosper Mérimée (then inspector of historical monuments) initiated its restoration, with houses gradually removed between 1826 and 1830 to reveal the original Roman structure beneath. This restoration preserved both Roman and medieval layers, creating a unique archaeological palimpsest that tells 2,000 years of continuous urban history.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 1981, the Arles Amphitheatre was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the "Roman and Romanesque Monuments of Arles." Today, it serves multiple functions: as a major tourist attraction (drawing over 500,000 visitors annually), as a venue for bullfighting (both Spanish-style corrida and local Camargue bull games), and as a concert and events space. The monument represents the continuity of public spectacle from Roman times to the present, maintaining its original purpose as a gathering place for communal experience. Its preservation allows modern visitors to stand where Roman citizens watched gladiators, medieval residents attended church, and contemporary audiences enjoy concerts, creating a tangible connection across millennia.
Amphitheatre Highlights
Built: 90 AD (Emperor Domitian)
Capacity: 20,000 spectators originally
Dimensions: 136m x 109m x 21m
Arches: 60 on two levels
UNESCO: World Heritage since 1981
First Approach: Entering the Ancient Arena
My first view of the Arles Amphitheatre was from the narrow Rue de la Calade. The massive stone walls suddenly appeared between medieval buildings, their scale overwhelming the surrounding streets. Entering through the original Roman gate, I emerged into the vast elliptical arena. The contrast took my breath away: the ancient stone glowing golden in the morning sun, the empty space humming with 2,000 years of memory. I climbed to the upper tiers, following the same steps Roman spectators used. From above, the geometry became clear: perfect ellipse, symmetrical arches, mathematical precision. Looking down, I imagined the scenes: gladiators entering through the gates below, wild animals released from underground cages, 20,000 voices roaring. The most moving detail was the medieval chapel built into the structure - a testament to continuous adaptation. Sitting in silence, I felt the layers of time: Roman engineering, medieval survival, modern restoration. This wasn't a ruin but a living structure, still hosting events as it was designed to do. The morning light, the warm stone, the echoes of footsteps - all connected me to every person who had entered this space for two millennia, understanding why this arena remains Arles' beating heart.
Travel Guide
Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Opening Hours | Varies by season: Generally 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM Summer (June-August): 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM Spring/Autumn: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM Winter (Nov-Feb): 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM Closed: January 1, May 1, November 1, December 25 Check website for exact seasonal times |
| Ticket Prices | Amphitheatre only: €9 adults Combined ticket (Arena + Theatre): €12 adults Reduced: €7 (students, 12-17 years) Free: Under 12, EU citizens under 26 Audio guide: €3 (recommended) Guided tours: Additional €3-€5 |
| Best Time to Visit | Photography: Early morning (opens 9:00 AM) for empty arena Avoid crowds: Weekday mornings, outside July-August Events: Check schedule for bullfights, concerts, reenactments Weather: Spring and autumn for pleasant temperatures Light: Late afternoon for golden stone |
| Suggested Duration | Quick visit: 45-60 minutes (arena + lower levels) Standard visit: 1.5-2 hours (with audio guide, all levels) Comprehensive: 2.5-3 hours (with Roman Theatre combination) Events: Additional 2-3 hours for performances |
| Getting There | Train: Arles station (15 min walk), TGV from Paris (4h), Avignon (20 min) Bus: Regional services from nearby cities Car: Parking at nearby lots (follow signs to centre historique) Walking: In historic center, easy walk from anywhere in Arles Bike: Popular, bike racks nearby |
Visiting Tips
Tickets: Buy combined with Roman Theatre for savings
Timing: Arrive at opening for best photos without crowds
Footwear: Stone steps uneven, wear comfortable shoes
Audio Guide: Highly recommended for historical context
Combination: Visit with Roman Theatre (5 min walk)
Must-Experience Features
Main Arena - Where events took place
Upper Tiers - Panoramic views of Arles
Underground Passages - Gladiator and animal preparation areas
Following the Audio Guide Through History
The audio guide transformed my amphitheater visit from sightseeing to time travel. Starting at the main entrance, the narration explained Roman crowd control: 60 numbered arches directed spectators to specific sections based on social class. As I climbed, the guide described the velarium - the massive awning operated by sailors that shaded spectators. Reaching the upper tier, I learned about medieval transformation: how houses were built into the arches, a community living within the ancient walls. The most fascinating section covered the underground passages (now visible through grates): where gladiators prepared, animals were caged, and stage machinery operated. Sound effects added atmosphere: crowd roar during a gladiator fight, medieval church bells, modern bullfight trumpets. The guide connected the dots: same space, different spectacles across centuries. It ended with a contemporary bullfight description, highlighting continuity. The 90-minute audio journey made the stones speak, understanding the arena not as static ruin but as evolving stage where Arles' history has been performed for 2,000 years.
Travel Experiences
Bullfighting Events - Traditional corrida
Concerts and Performances - Modern events in ancient setting
Roman Reenactments - Gladiator demonstrations
Unique Experiences
- Bullfighting: Traditional Spanish corrida and Camargue bull games
- Concerts: Major artists perform in ancient setting
- Roman Reenactments: Gladiator demonstrations and combat shows
- Special Events: Film screenings, theater, dance performances
- Architectural Study: Roman engineering and medieval adaptations
- Photography: Unique perspectives of ancient and medieval elements
- Seasonal Festivals: Easter bullfights, summer concerts, autumn events
- Educational Tours: School groups and historical study
Attending a Bullfight: Tradition and Controversy
I attended an Easter bullfight (corrida) to experience the arena's living tradition. The atmosphere was electric: families in Sunday best, aficionados discussing breeding lines, tourists curious but respectful. The ritual began with the paseíllo - matadors, picadors, and banderilleros parading in glittering traje de luces. The first bull burst into the arena, magnificent and powerful. What followed was a complex ballet of danger and skill that divided the crowd: some cheered each pass, others watched solemnly, a few left in protest. During intermissions, vendors sold snacks as they have for centuries. The most moving moment came when a particularly brave bull was granted indulto (pardon) and returned to the ranch for breeding - the crowd erupted in approval. The experience was emotionally complex: admiration for the bull's courage, respect for the ritual's tradition, discomfort with the violence. Sitting where Romans watched gladiators die, I understood the continuum of public spectacle, the human fascination with ritualized combat. The bullfight revealed the arena not as museum but as living culture, where ancient traditions evolve amid modern debates, maintaining its role as Arles' communal stage.
Tips & Notes
Visitor Etiquette
- Respect the ancient stone - no climbing on fragile areas
- Stay behind barriers in restricted areas
- Keep voices moderate - sound carries in the elliptical space
- No flash photography if preserving the stone
- Supervise children on steep steps and high walls
- Dispose of trash properly (bins provided)
- Respect events and performances in progress
Practical Tips
- Wear sun protection in summer (limited shade)
- Carry water, especially in hot months
- Wear comfortable, non-slip footwear (stone steps worn smooth)
- Check event calendar before visit (may affect access)
- Arrive early for events - seating is first-come, no reserved seats for many
- For bullfights: Understand what you're attending, can be intense
- Accessibility: Limited for wheelchairs (ancient structure)
Photography Tips
Light: Morning for east-facing sides, afternoon for west
Views: Upper tier for arena-wide shots, lower for detail
Details: Carved stone, arches, medieval additions
People: Include for scale to show immense size
Events: Fast shutter speed for action shots
Panoramic: Wide-angle for full arena, telephoto for details
FAQs
Detailed comparison with Rome's Colosseum:
- Size and Capacity:
- Arles: 136m x 109m, capacity 20,000
- Colosseum: 189m x 156m, capacity 50,000-80,000
- Difference: Colosseum significantly larger, Arles more intimate
- Construction Date:
- Arles: 90 AD (Emperor Domitian)
- Colosseum: 70-80 AD (Emperors Vespasian, Titus)
- Note: Arles built just 10-20 years after Colosseum
- Preservation:
- Arles: Exceptionally well-preserved, complete elliptical shape
- Colosseum: Partially ruined, missing sections of outer wall
- Reason: Arles converted to village, protected from stone quarrying
- Architectural Features:
- Similarities: Both have elliptical design, tiered seating, underground passages
- Differences: Arles has 60 arches (Colosseum 80), different decorative elements
- Medieval History:
- Arles: Transformed into fortified village with 200+ houses
- Colosseum: Used for various purposes but not as residential village
- Unique: Arles' medieval adaptation visible in structure
- Current Use:
- Arles: Active venue for bullfights, concerts, events year-round
- Colosseum: Primarily tourist site, limited events
- Advantage: Arles maintains original function as entertainment venue
- Visitor Experience:
- Arles: Less crowded, can explore more freely, attend events
- Colosseum: Very crowded, timed tickets, more restrictions
- Atmosphere: Arles feels more intimate and accessible
- Historical Significance:
- Arles: Important provincial capital arena
- Colosseum: Imperial capital's premier arena
- Perspective: Arles shows how Roman culture spread to provinces
- Which to Visit?
- For imperial scale: Colosseum
- For preservation and intimacy: Arles
- For events and living tradition: Arles
- For understanding Roman provincial life: Arles
- Verdict: Arles offers more complete, intimate Roman arena experience with living traditions
Bullfighting traditions in Arles:
- Spanish-style Corrida (Corrida de Toros):
- Description: Traditional Spanish bullfight with matador, death of bull
- Season: Easter weekend (major event), throughout summer
- Key Events: Feria de Pâques (Easter Festival), July bullfights
- Format: Three matadors, six bulls, afternoon events
- Controversy: Subject of animal welfare debates
- Course Camarguaise:
- Description: Traditional Camargue bull sport, no killing
- Objective: Rascateurs (athletes) remove rosettes from bull's horns
- Bulls: Specially bred Camargue bulls, smaller, quicker
- Events: Throughout year, especially during ferias
- Atmosphere: Festive, family-friendly, unique to region
- Novillada:
- Description: Bullfight with young bulls and novice matadors
- Purpose: Training for young toreros, less formal
- Season: Summer months
- Rejoneo:
- Description: Bullfighting on horseback (Portuguese influence)
- Events: Special performances, usually with Spanish corrida
- Major Events Calendar:
- Feria de Pâques (Easter): Largest, multiple days of corridas
- July: Regular bullfights, often weekend afternoons
- Feria du Riz (Rice Festival): September, includes bull events
- Special Breeder Events: Showcases of specific bull ranches
- Ticket Information:
- Purchase: At arena box office, online, or tourist office
- Prices: €20-€100 depending on seat and event
- Seating: Sol (sun) vs Sombra (shade) - sombra more expensive
- Best seats: Lower rows for proximity, upper for overview
- Etiquette for Spectators:
- Arrive before start (latecomers may not be seated)
- Applaud good passes, shout "olé" for exceptional moments
- White handkerchiefs to request bull's pardon (indulto)
- Dress: Smart casual expected, especially for important corridas
- Alternative Viewing:
- Free: Watch training sessions (tientas) at local ranches
- Educational: Bullfighting museum in Arles explains traditions
- Less intense: Course Camarguaise events in villages
- Cultural Context: Deeply rooted in local culture, controversial but protected as tradition
The amphitheater's medieval transformation and restoration:
- Medieval Village (12th-19th centuries):
- Transformation: After Roman Empire fell, arena became fortified settlement
- Defenses: Three towers added, walls reinforced, gates controlled
- Population: Approximately 200 houses, 1,000 residents at peak
- Community: Complete neighborhood with streets, squares, two chapels
- Churches: Chapel of St. Martin, Chapel of the Holy Cross
- Layout: Houses built into arches, using Roman walls as foundations
- Why It Survived:
- Practical reuse prevented stone quarrying (fate of many Roman buildings)
- Defensive position valuable in turbulent medieval times
- Community established, continued for generations
- Restoration (1826-1830):
- Inspiration: Prosper Mérimée, inspector of historical monuments
- Decision: Remove houses to reveal Roman structure
- Process: Gradual, house-by-house removal over 4 years
- Compensation: Residents relocated, some resistance recorded
- Archaeology: Careful documentation during removal
- What Remains Visible Today:
- Towers: Three medieval towers still standing
- Chapel Remains: Foundations of Chapel of St. Martin visible
- House Foundations: Some medieval floor levels preserved
- Modifications: Doors, windows, fireplaces carved into Roman stone
- Documentation: Drawings and paintings show village before removal
- Historical Significance of Village:
- Example of continuous urban adaptation
- Shows how Romans reused earlier structures
- Unique archaeological record of medieval urban life
- Viewing Medieval Remains:
- Northwest tower: Most complete medieval addition
- Chapel foundations: Near main entrance
- House outlines: Some visible in stonework
- Information panels: Explain medieval features
- 19th-Century Debate:
- Preservation vs. restoration arguments
- Romantic interest in Roman past vs. living community
- Early example of heritage conservation philosophy
- Modern Appreciation:
- Recognized as valuable part of monument's history
- Example of continuous human adaptation of architecture
- Makes Arles Amphitheatre unique among Roman arenas
- Educational Value: Shows 2,000 years of continuous use and adaptation on one site
Arles' other Roman monuments (all UNESCO World Heritage):
- Roman Theatre (Théâtre Antique):
- Location: 5-minute walk from amphitheatre
- Built: 1st century BC (older than amphitheatre)
- Original Capacity: 10,000 spectators
- Current Use: Summer concerts and festivals
- Highlights: Two remaining columns, orchestra area, stage foundations
- Famous Find: Venus of Arles statue (now in Louvre)
- Combined Ticket: Available with amphitheatre
- Alyscamps Necropolis:
- Location: Southeast of city center
- History: Roman and early Christian cemetery
- Famous: One of most celebrated necropolises in ancient world
- Artistic: Painted by Van Gogh and Gauguin
- Features: Avenue of tombs, sarcophagi, church
- Cryptoporticus:
- Location: Under Place du Forum
- What: Underground Roman galleries for forum foundations
- Length: 90 meters of preserved galleries
- Purpose: Storage, possibly slave quarters
- Atmosphere: Eerie, cool, well-preserved
- Baths of Constantine:
- Location: Rhône riverbank
- History: 4th century AD Roman baths
- Preservation: Caldarium (hot room) well-preserved
- Size: Once among largest in Roman world
- Roman Forum:
- Location: Place du Forum (main square)
- Remains: Two columns incorporated into hotel facade
- Original: Center of Roman civic life
- Museum of Ancient Arles (Musée départemental Arles antique):
- Location: Near Roman circus site
- Collection: Exceptional Roman artifacts from Arles
- Highlights: Complete Roman barge, mosaics, sculptures
- Building: Modern, shaped like Roman circus
- Roman Circus:
- Location: Southwest of city (mostly archaeological site)
- History: Chariot racing stadium, once held 20,000
- Visible: Outline in urban plan, some remains
- Walking Route:
- Start: Amphitheatre
- Then: Roman Theatre (5 min)
- Then: Cryptoporticus (10 min)
- Then: Baths of Constantine (15 min)
- Then: Alyscamps (20 min)
- End: Museum of Ancient Arles (25 min from Alyscamps)
- Arles Pass: Available for multiple Roman sites
- UNESCO Designation: All part of "Roman and Romanesque Monuments of Arles" World Heritage Site
Local Cuisine
Traditional Provençal Cuisine
Saturday Market - Local products
Bull Meat Dishes - Local specialty
Local Specialties
- Gardiane de Taureau: Bull meat stew in red wine sauce
- Riz de Camargue: Rice from Camargue region
- Saucisson d'Arles: Traditional dry sausage
- Tellines: Small clams from Camargue coast
- Fougasse d'Arles: Sweet brioche with orange flower water
- Wines: Costières de Nîmes, Les Baux-de-Provence
Recommended Restaurants
| Restaurant Name | Location | Specialty | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|
| L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel | 7 Rue des Carmes | Creative Provençal, two Michelin stars | Elegant, artistic, garden |
| Le Galoubet | 18 Rue du Docteur Fanton | Traditional, bull meat dishes | Cozy, popular with locals |
| Le Criquet | 21 Rue Porte de Laure | Simple Provençal, good value | Casual, lively |
| L'Arlatan | 26 Rue du Sauvage | Modern French, beautiful courtyard | Historic building, romantic |
| Boulangerie des Arènes | 3 Rue de la Calade | Bread, sandwiches, pastries | Takeaway, near amphitheatre |
| Le Tambourin | 65 Rue des Arènes | Casual, bullfight-themed decor | Lively, near arena |
Dinner at Le Galoubet: Bull Meat Tradition
After attending a bullfight, I dined at Le Galoubet to try the traditional gardiane de taureau. The restaurant, with its bullfighting memorabilia and warm atmosphere, felt appropriately thematic. I started with tapenade and local olives, then moved to the main event: the bull stew. Served in a traditional cassole, the meat was dark, rich, falling apart tender, in a sauce of red wine, herbs, and black olives. The waiter explained the tradition: bulls that perform bravely in the arena are honored by being served in this dish. The flavor was intense, gamey but not overwhelming, with the wine sauce balancing perfectly. It was served with riz de Camargue, the local red rice. The experience connected the afternoon's spectacle to the evening's meal, understanding the cultural cycle: bull raised, fought, honored, consumed. For dessert, fougasse d'Arles, the local sweet bread. The meal felt like participation in tradition, not just observation. Dining on bull meat in a bullfighting city, near the ancient arena where such traditions continue, created a profound connection to Arles' identity, where Roman spectacle, medieval survival, and living culture intersect on the plate.
Accommodation Recommendations
| Hotel Name | Category | Location | Special Features | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre | Boutique | 5-7 Rue Diderot (near arena) | Views of arena, rooftop terrace, historic building | €€€ |
| Hôtel Arlatan | Design | 26 Rue du Sauvage (historic center) | 15th-century palace, contemporary art, pool | €€€€ |
| Le Cloître | Mid-range | 16 Rue du Cloître (quiet area) | Peaceful courtyard, personalized service | €€€ |
| Ibis Arles Palais des Congrès | Budget | Avenue de la 1ère Division Française Libre | Reliable chain, includes breakfast, pool | €€ |
| Hôtel du Musée | Budget | 11 Rue du Grand Prieuré | Simple, good value, central | €€ |
| Aubergine | Hostel | 2 Rue Mireille | Budget, social atmosphere, kitchen facilities | € |
Accommodation Tips
Location: Choose inside historic center for walkability to sites
Views: Some hotels offer arena views - request when booking
Events: Book early for bullfight weekends and summer festivals
Parking: Most hotels have limited parking, use city lots
Noise: Rooms facing courtyards quieter than streets
Air Conditioning: Essential in summer, confirm before booking
Staying at Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre with Arena Views
My room at Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre offered a direct view of the arena's upper tiers from a small balcony. Waking to sunrise illuminating the ancient stone was magical. The hotel, in a restored 17th-century building, blended historic charm with modern comfort: exposed stone walls, beamed ceilings, but excellent bathrooms. Each morning, breakfast on the rooftop terrace provided panoramic views of Arles with the arena as centerpiece. The location was perfect: 2 minutes to the arena entrance, 5 minutes to the Roman Theatre, steps from cafés and shops. The staff were knowledgeable locals, recommending the best times to visit sites and reserving restaurant tables. One evening, returning from dinner, I found the arena illuminated for a concert - watching from my balcony felt privileged. The convenience allowed multiple visits: early morning for photography, afternoon for guided tour, evening for events. Staying here deepened my connection to the arena, understanding it as living monument that shapes daily life in Arles, its presence constant in the city's rhythm.
Travel Itineraries
One-Day Roman Arles
Morning: Amphitheatre + audio guide
Afternoon: Roman Theatre + Museum of Ancient Arles
Evening: Alyscamps at sunset + Provençal dinner
Three-Day Arles and Camargue
Day 1: Roman sites + historic center
Day 2: Camargue natural park + bull ranch visit
Day 3: Van Gogh sites + cooking class
One-Week Provençal Experience
Days 1-2: Arles Roman sites and city
Days 3-4: Camargue region and Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Days 5-6: Les Baux-de-Provence and Alpilles
Day 7: Avignon and papal history
One-Day Roman Arles Route
Three-Day Arles and Camargue Plan
One-Week Provençal Experience
The Perfect Arles Day: From Gladiators to Van Gogh
I designed my perfect Arles day, starting with 9:00 AM entry to the amphitheatre. The morning light and empty arena allowed photography and contemplation. The audio guide brought Roman life to life. At 11:00 AM, I walked to the Roman Theatre, imagining performances where the Venus of Arles was found. Lunch was at a café on Place du Forum, sitting where Roman forums stood. The afternoon included the Museum of Ancient Arles, seeing the remarkable Roman barge and mosaics. At 4:00 PM, I visited the Alyscamps necropolis as afternoon light slanted through the cypress trees, understanding why Van Gogh painted here. The Van Gogh Foundation completed the artistic connection, showing his interpretations of Roman sites. Dinner featured gardiane de taureau, connecting to bullfighting tradition. The day ended with an evening stroll along the Rhône, where Van Gogh painted Starry Night. This progression connected 2,000 years of Arles' identity: Roman engineering, medieval adaptation, artistic inspiration, living traditions. Each experience enriched the others, creating a comprehensive understanding of why Arles isn't just a collection of monuments, but a living palimpsest where Roman stones, medieval streets, painted canvases, and bullfight trumpets create a unique cultural symphony that continues to resonate through time.