History & Significance
City of the Popes
Avignon, known as the "City of the Popes," served as the seat of the Catholic Church from 1309 to 1377 during the Avignon Papacy, when seven consecutive popes resided in the city rather than Rome. This period transformed Avignon from a provincial town into one of Europe's most important political and cultural centers. The city's most iconic monument, the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes), is the largest Gothic palace in the world, covering 15,000 square meters. Built between 1335 and 1364, it served as both fortress and palace, reflecting the Church's dual spiritual and temporal power. The surrounding medieval walls, completed in 1370, stretch 4.3 kilometers with 39 towers and 7 main gates, creating one of Europe's best-preserved medieval city fortifications.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 1995, Avignon's historic center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its outstanding testimony to 14th-century papal history and architecture. The site includes the Palace of the Popes, the Petit Palais (former archbishop's palace), the Romanesque Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms, the remains of the Saint-Bénézet Bridge (famous from the song "Sur le Pont d'Avignon"), and the complete medieval ramparts. The city's architecture represents a unique blend of French Gothic and Italian influences, reflecting the cultural exchange during the papal period. Today, with approximately 90,000 residents, Avignon maintains its medieval character while hosting one of France's most important cultural events, the Festival d'Avignon, which attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors each July.
Medieval and Renaissance Legacy
Beyond the papal period, Avignon flourished as part of the Papal States until the French Revolution. The city became a center of art and learning, with the establishment of the University of Avignon in 1303. The Renaissance brought new architectural splendor, particularly in the private mansions (hôtels particuliers) built by cardinals and wealthy merchants. Avignon's strategic position on the Rhône River made it a major trading center, visible in its dense medieval street layout and merchant houses. The city's unique history as both papal capital and French provincial city created layers of architectural and cultural heritage that make it one of France's most compelling historic destinations, where every stone tells a story of power, faith, art, and commerce.
City Highlights
Population: 90,000 (Greater Avignon: 300,000)
Papal Period: 1309-1377 (7 popes)
Walls: 4.3 km medieval ramparts
UNESCO: World Heritage Site since 1995
Festival: July, 1,000+ performances
First View: Crossing the Rhône to the Walled City
My first sight of Avignon was from across the Rhône River at sunset. The medieval walls glowed golden in the evening light, with the massive Palace of the Popes rising like a stone mountain above the rooftops. I crossed the modern bridge, glancing at the famous broken Saint-Bénézet Bridge mid-river. Entering through the Porte de l'Oulle gate, I was immediately transported: narrow cobbled streets, stone buildings with ancient doorways, the sound of fountains in hidden courtyards. I walked directly to the Place du Palais, the vast square before the palace. The scale was overwhelming - the largest Gothic palace in the world, built to impress. As lights began illuminating the facade, I understood why this city was called the "Second Rome." The evening bells from Notre-Dame des Doms cathedral completed the medieval atmosphere. That first impression established Avignon's dual nature: monumental power (the palace) and human-scale life (the winding streets), frozen in time yet vibrantly alive. I knew immediately this was no ordinary historic city, but a place where history was palpable in every stone, where the ghost of papal power still haunted the shadows.
Travel Guide
Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Tourist Seasons | Peak: July (festival), Easter, summer weekends High: April-June, September-October (pleasant weather) Low: November-March (quieter, some closures) Festival: Three weeks in July (book everything early) Christmas: Markets and decorations December |
| Key Attractions Costs | Palais des Papes: €12 adults (audio guide included) Petit Palais: €6 adults (Renaissance art) Saint-Bénézet Bridge: €5 adults (combined ticket available) Ramparts Walk: Free (accessible sections) Avignon Pass: €15-€25 (multiple sites + transport) Many churches: Free entry |
| Best Time to Visit | For weather: May-June, September-October For festival: July (book 6+ months ahead) For photography: Early morning or golden hour To avoid crowds: November-February, weekday mornings For Christmas: December for markets |
| Suggested Duration | Day trip: Possible but rushed (from Arles, Nîmes) Weekend: 2-3 days for city highlights + palace Week: 5-7 days for city + region + festival events Extended: Popular for longer festival stays or study |
| Getting There | Train: TGV from Paris (2h40), Marseille (30 min), Lyon (1h) Bus: Regional services to nearby towns Car: A7 motorway, parking outside walls recommended Plane: Avignon-Provence Airport (8 km), Marseille (1h) Walking: Entire historic center walkable |
Visiting Tips
Parking: Use lots outside walls, walk in (historic center pedestrian)
Footwear: Cobblestones everywhere - comfortable shoes essential
Combined Tickets: Save with palace + bridge + Petit Palais pass
Festival: Book accommodation and tickets months in advance
Language: French predominant, English spoken in tourist areas
Must-See Sites
Palais des Papes - Largest Gothic palace
Pont Saint-Bénézet - Famous "broken bridge"
Rocher des Doms - Gardens with panoramic views
Exploring the Palace of the Popes
My visit to the Palais des Papes began in the Cour d'Honneur, the vast main courtyard. The audio guide (included) immediately brought the stones to life with voices of historical figures. The palace is actually two buildings: the austere Old Palace (1334-1342) built by Pope Benedict XII, a Cistercian monk who valued simplicity, and the more lavish New Palace (1342-1352) built by his successor Clement VI, who loved art and luxury. This contrast was striking: Benedict's chapel with minimal decoration versus Clement's stunning frescoes in the Stag Room. The scale was staggering: the Great Chapel could hold 1,500 people, the Great Tinel (banquet hall) seated 1,000. Walking the same corridors as popes, I imagined the conclaves, the political intrigues, the lavish ceremonies. The most moving room was the Consistory, where papal elections were held. From the terraces, views over Avignon and the Rhône revealed the palace's strategic position. The visit ended in the treasury, where replicas of papal tiaras glittered. Emerging after 2.5 hours, I felt I'd time-traveled to the 14th century, understanding how this fortress-palace embodied both spiritual aspiration and temporal power, why it remains Europe's most important Gothic civil building.
Travel Experiences
Festival d'Avignon - Street theater and performances
Medieval Streets Exploration - Hidden courtyards and squares
Rhône River Cruises - Views from the water
Unique Experiences
- Palais des Papes: Largest Gothic palace with audio guide tour
- Festival d'Avignon: World's largest performing arts festival (July)
- Pont d'Avignon: Walk the famous broken bridge, learn its history
- Rocher des Doms: Gardens with panoramic city and river views
- Medieval Streets: Get lost in labyrinth of ancient lanes
- Petit Palais Museum: Renaissance art collection
- Rhône Cruises: Boat trips with unique perspectives
- Cooking Classes: Provençal cuisine in historic setting
July Festival: When Avignon Becomes a Stage
Visiting during the Festival d'Avignon transformed the city. Every square, courtyard, and street became a performance space. I arrived without tickets, relying on the "OFF" festival (unofficial, fringe events). The atmosphere was electric: actors promoting shows on every corner, impromptu performances in alleys, posters covering every available surface. My day began with street theater in Place de l'Horloge - acrobats performing between café tables. At noon, I attended a one-woman show in a 14th-century chapel. The afternoon included a modern dance performance in a former convent cloister. Between shows, I browsed the book market at Place du Palais, where authors signed copies. Evening brought the main event: a contemporary adaptation of a Greek tragedy in the Cour d'Honneur of the Palace of the Popes - watching actors perform where popes once ruled felt profoundly symbolic. After midnight, the festival continued in bars and restaurants, with performers and audiences mingling. The city that sleeps 11 months a year was utterly alive, proving that Avignon's papal legacy of patronage continues in modern form. This wasn't just theater-going; it was immersion in a city transformed by art, understanding why this festival, born in 1947, remains essential pilgrimage for theater lovers worldwide.
Tips & Notes
City Etiquette
- Respect pedestrian zones - historic center is car-free
- Keep voices moderate in narrow streets (echoes disturb residents)
- Don't climb on ancient walls or fortifications
- Ask permission before photographing performers during festival
- Dress respectfully when visiting churches (covered shoulders)
- Don't litter - use bins provided throughout city
- Respect "Private" signs on doors and courtyards
Practical Tips
- Use park-and-ride (P+R) lots outside walls - cheap and efficient
- Get city map from tourist office - medieval streets confusing
- Carry cash for small shops and markets
- Wear comfortable walking shoes (cobblestones challenging)
- Book restaurants in advance, especially during festival
- Check opening times - some shops close 12-2 PM, Mondays
- Carry water in summer - temperatures can be high
Photography Tips
Palace: Morning light on west facade, evening on east
Bridge: Sunset for silhouette against river
Streets: Golden hour for warm stone colors
Details: Carved doors, ancient signs, wrought iron
Views: Rocher des Doms for panoramic city shots
Festival: Fast shutter for street performances
FAQs
The Palace of the Popes' complex history:
- Why Avignon?:
- Political instability in Rome
- French Pope Clement V elected (1305)
- He never reached Rome, settled in Avignon 1309
- Strategic location, already Papal territory
- Beginning of "Avignon Papacy" (1309-1377)
- Construction Phases:
- Old Palace (1334-1342): Pope Benedict XII (Cistercian)
- Austere, fortress-like, defensive
- Built around existing bishop's palace
- Emphasized simplicity and security
- New Palace (1342-1352): Pope Clement VI
- Lavish, decorative, palatial
- Added private apartments, chapels
- Employed best artists of time
- Later additions: By subsequent popes
- Old Palace (1334-1342): Pope Benedict XII (Cistercian)
- Architectural Features:
- Size: 15,000 m², largest Gothic palace
- Walls: 3 meters thick in places
- Towers: 12 for defense and residence
- Rooms: Over 25 including chapels, halls, private apartments
- Key Rooms:
- Consistory: Papal elections
- Great Tinel: Banquet hall (1,000 guests)
- Great Chapel: Religious ceremonies
- Papal Bedroom: Where pope slept
- Stag Room: Clement VI's hunting-themed frescoes
- Post-Papal History:
- 1377: Papacy returns to Rome
- 1378-1417: Western Schism, anti-popes in Avignon
- 15th-18th centuries: Papal legates residence
- French Revolution: Sacked, turned into barracks
- 1906: Became national museum
- Architectural Significance:
- Blend of French Gothic and Italian styles
- Innovations in palace design
- Example of 14th-century military architecture
- UNESCO: Listed 1995 as outstanding example of Gothic architecture
- Modern Use: Museum, cultural events, Festival d'Avignon venue
Avignon Festival essential information:
- Basic Facts:
- Founded: 1947 by Jean Vilar
- When: Three weeks in July (dates vary slightly)
- Duration: Usually 3 weeks, starting first Friday after July 14
- Size: World's largest performing arts festival
- Attendance: 100,000+ for official festival
- Two Festivals:
- IN (Official Festival):
- Curated program, about 40 shows
- Venues: Historic sites (Palace courtyards, churches)
- Tickets: €10-€40, book months ahead
- Quality: Established artists, premieres
- OFF (Fringe Festival):
- Open to all, 1,000+ shows
- Venues: Everywhere - streets, cafés, shops
- Tickets: €5-€20, often available same day
- Atmosphere: Experimental, diverse, chaotic
- IN (Official Festival):
- How to Experience:
- Planning:
- IN: Book accommodation and tickets 6+ months ahead
- OFF: Can be more spontaneous
- Program: Released April/May, study online
- Getting Tickets:
- IN: Official festival website, months ahead
- OFF: At venue before show, or official OFF kiosks
- Last-minute: Some returns available
- Free Events:
- Street performances throughout city
- Public readings and discussions
- Exhibitions and installations
- Planning:
- Daily Rhythm:
- Morning: Street theater begins, ticket offices open
- Afternoon: Performances in cool venues
- Evening: Main IN performances in historic sites
- Night: OFF shows, parties, discussions in bars
- Practical Tips:
- Accommodation: Book 6-12 months ahead
- Transport: Buses extended hours, but walking best
- Food: Many temporary restaurants and bars open
- Weather: Hot - light clothing, water, hat essential
- Schedule: Don't overbook - allow time between shows
- Beyond Shows:
- Exhibitions in museums and galleries
- Book market at Place du Palais
- Meet-the-artist sessions
- Workshops and masterclasses
- For First-Timers: Try both IN and OFF, see street performances, embrace the chaos
- Cultural Impact: Transforms city, continues Avignon's legacy as cultural capital
The famous bridge's history and legend:
- Official Name: Pont Saint-Bénézet (Saint Bénézet Bridge)
- Construction:
- Started: 1177
- Completed: 1185 (original wooden structure)
- Rebuilt in stone: 1234-1237
- Original length: 900 meters with 22 arches
- Current: 4 arches remain (120 meters)
- The Legend of Bénézet:
- Shepherd boy Bénézet (12 years old) heard divine voice
- Told to build bridge across Rhône
- Miraculously lifted huge stone to start foundation
- Died in 1184, buried on bridge in chapel
- Canonized as saint for miracle
- Historical Importance:
- Strategic crossing between France and Papal territory
- Collector of tolls (funded bridge maintenance and hospital)
- Part of pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela
- Why Broken?:
- Rhône River powerful, frequent flooding
- 1226: Part destroyed during siege of Avignon
- 17th century: Progressive collapse of arches
- 1668: Great flood destroyed most remaining arches
- Abandoned: 17th century, not rebuilt
- The Song: "Sur le Pont d'Avignon"
- Origin: 15th century, originally "Sous le Pont" (under the bridge)
- Refers to Île de la Barthelasse (island) under bridge
- Where people actually danced (taverns on island)
- Changed to "Sur" (on) in 19th century
- Now famous children's song worldwide
- What to See Today:
- Four remaining arches and gatehouse
- Chapel of Saint Nicholas (where Bénézet buried)
- Exhibition on bridge history
- Panoramic views of palace and city
- Engineering:
- Elliptical arches (innovative for time)
- Built mid-river on Île de la Barthelasse
- Bridge and fortification combined
- UNESCO: Part of World Heritage Site designation
- Visit Experience: Walk bridge, learn history, see chapel, enjoy views, understand medieval engineering challenges
Avignon's remarkable city walls:
- Construction:
- Built: 1359-1370 (during papal period)
- Commissioned by: Pope Innocent VI
- Reason: Protect city during Hundred Years' War
- Built on: Earlier 13th-century walls
- Dimensions:
- Length: 4.3 kilometers (2.7 miles) complete circuit
- Height: 8 meters (26 feet) average
- Thickness: 2 meters (6.5 feet) at base
- Towers: 39 original, plus 7 main gates
- Preservation:
- Condition: Exceptionally well-preserved
- Completeness: 95% intact, one of Europe's most complete
- Restoration: Major 19th-century restoration by Viollet-le-Duc
- Protection: Classified historical monument, UNESCO site
- Walking the Walls:
- Possible?: Yes, on designated sections
- Access Points: Several staircases allow access to ramparts walk
- Best Sections:
- Porte de la Ligne to Porte Saint-Lazare (north)
- Rocher des Doms to Porte du Rhône (east)
- Views: Panoramic over city, palace, river, countryside
- Main Gates (Portes):
- Porte du Rhône: Main river gate
- Porte de la Ligne: Northern gate
- Porte Saint-Lazare: Northeastern gate
- Porte Saint-Michel: Southeastern gate
- Porte de l'Oulle: Western gate (reconstructed)
- Porte Limbert: Southwestern gate
- Porte du Rocher: Near palace (smaller)
- Defensive Features:
- Machicolations: For dropping objects on attackers
- Arrow slits: For archers
- Crenellations: Protective tooth-like parapets
- Walking patrol path: Along top of walls
- Walking Tips:
- Wear good shoes (uneven surfaces)
- Not fully wheelchair accessible
- Best light: Early morning or late afternoon
- Free access to accessible sections
- Historical Significance:
- Built quickly (11 years) for urgent defense needs
- Symbol of papal power and wealth
- Never seriously tested in siege (deterrent worked)
- Defined city's shape for centuries
- Modern Function: Defines historic center, pedestrian zone boundary, tourist attraction
Local Cuisine
Traditional Provençal Cuisine
Les Halles Covered Market
Côtes du Rhône Wine Tasting
Local Specialties
- Papalines d'Avignon: Chocolate balls with Popes' liqueur
- Boeuf en Daube: Traditional beef stew with wine
- Tapenade: Olive paste spread, originated in Provence
- Fougasse: Provençal flatbread, often with herbs
- Côtes du Rhône Wines: Châteauneuf-du-Pape nearby
- Berlingots: Traditional striped candy
Recommended Restaurants
| Restaurant Name | Location | Specialty | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|
| La Vieille Fontaine | Place du Palais | Traditional Provençal, palace views | Elegant, terrace with palace view |
| Le Lutrin | Place du Palais | Modern Provençal, market menu | Michelin-starred, sophisticated |
| Les 5 Sens | Rue de la Bancasse | Creative tasting menus | Intimate, modern |
| Le Bercail | Île de la Barthelasse (across river) | Traditional, river views | Rustic, popular with locals |
| Les Halles | Place Pie | Food market, various stalls | Lively, authentic, good for lunch |
| La Maison de la Papaline | Rue Saint-Agricol | Papalines (chocolates), tea room | Historic sweet shop |
Dinner with Palace Views at La Vieille Fontaine
My dinner at La Vieille Fontaine offered the perfect Avignon experience. The terrace tables directly faced the illuminated Palace of the Popes, creating a breathtaking backdrop. I started with the restaurant's signature dish: foie gras with fig chutney. My main course was daube de boeuf, the traditional Provençal beef stew cooked in red wine, falling apart tender. The sommelier recommended a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from just across the river - the papal connection felt appropriate. Between courses, I watched the palace light show begin, projecting historical scenes onto the stone facade. The service was attentive but unobtrusive, allowing the view to dominate. For dessert, I had to try the papalines - chocolate balls filled with the secret papal liqueur, created to honor the Avignon popes. As night deepened, bats flitted around the palace towers, adding to the medieval atmosphere. The meal connected all Avignon's elements: papal history, Provençal cuisine, local wine, and stunning architecture. More than dinner, it was culinary theater with the world's largest Gothic palace as set design, understanding why this city has fed both body and soul for centuries.
Accommodation Recommendations
| Hotel Name | Category | Location | Special Features | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| La Mirande | Luxury | Place de l'Amirande (near palace) | 18th-century mansion, Michelin restaurant, cooking school | €€€€€ |
| Hôtel d'Europe | Historic Luxury | Place Crillon (central) | 16th-century mansion, Napoleon stayed, beautiful courtyard | €€€€ |
| Hôtel de l'Horloge | Mid-range | Place de l'Horloge (main square) | Central location, some rooms with views, modern comfort | €€€ |
| Le Magnan | Boutique | Rue du Portail Magnanen (quiet area) | Converted 17th-century house, garden, personalized | €€€ |
| Ibis Avignon Centre | Budget | Rue de la République (main street) | Reliable chain, includes breakfast, central | €€ |
| Auberge de Jeunesse | Hostel | Île de la Barthelasse (across river) | Budget, palace views, garden, bike rental | € |
Accommodation Tips
Location: Inside walls for walkability to everything
Views: Request "palace view" room for unforgettable experience
Noise: Rooms facing courtyards quieter than streets
Festival: Book 6-12 months ahead for July
Parking: Most hotels have limited parking, book space in advance
Air Conditioning: Essential in summer, confirm before booking
Staying at Hôtel d'Europe
My room at Hôtel d'Europe overlooked the quiet interior courtyard, a green oasis in the city center. The hotel, a 16th-century cardinal's mansion, retained historic features: vaulted ceilings, stone walls, ancient wooden beams. Each morning, breakfast in the courtyard featured local specialties: fougasse, tapenade, fresh fruit. The location was perfect: 2 minutes to the palace, 5 minutes to the bridge, steps from the main square. The hotel's history was palpable: Napoleon stayed here in 1799, signatures of famous guests filled the guest book. The staff were knowledgeable locals, recommending lesser-known sites like the Calvet Museum and the synagogue courtyard. One evening, returning from dinner, I discovered the hotel's small library with books on Avignon history, spending hours learning about the city I was exploring. The blend of historic ambiance and modern comfort felt appropriate for Avignon - respecting the past while embracing the present. Waking to church bells rather than traffic, I felt immersed in the city's rhythm. Staying here deepened my connection to Avignon's layers of history, understanding the city as living museum where every stone has a story.
Travel Itineraries
One-Day Avignon Highlights
Morning: Palace of the Popes tour + Saint-Bénézet Bridge
Afternoon: Rocher des Doms gardens + Petit Palais museum
Evening: Medieval streets walk + dinner with palace views
Three-Day Papal City Experience
Day 1: Palace + bridge + gardens + evening light show
Day 2: Museums (Petit Palais, Calvet) + cooking class
Day 3: Day trip to Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyards
One-Week Avignon and Provence
Days 1-2: Avignon city exploration
Days 3-4: Luberon villages and landscapes
Days 5-6: Arles and Camargue region
Day 7: Wine tasting in nearby vineyards
One-Day Avignon Highlights Route
Three-Day Papal City Experience
One-Week Avignon and Provence
The Perfect Avignon Day: From Dawn to Palace Lights
I designed my perfect Avignon day, starting with dawn at the Rocher des Doms gardens. Watching sunrise illuminate the palace and river was magical. At 9:00 AM, I was first in line for the Palace of the Popes, enjoying empty rooms before crowds. The audio guide brought the stones to life. At 11:00 AM, I crossed to the Saint-Bénézet Bridge, learning its history while enjoying river views. Lunch was at Les Halles market - selecting fresh ingredients from stalls. The afternoon included the Petit Palais museum's Renaissance collection, then getting lost in medieval streets behind the palace. At 4:00 PM, a wine tasting introduced me to Côtes du Rhône wines. As evening approached, I walked a section of the ramparts for panoramic views. Dinner at a terrace facing the palace coincided with the light show projection. The day ended with a moonlit stroll along the river, the illuminated palace reflected in the water. This day wove together Avignon's essential elements: papal power, medieval engineering, artistic heritage, culinary tradition, and the Rhône's constant presence. Each experience enriched the others, creating a comprehensive understanding of why Avignon isn't just a historic city, but a living masterpiece where seven centuries of history continue to resonate in every stone, every view, every glass of wine.