History & Culture
City of a Thousand Fountains
Aix-en-Provence, often called "Aix" by locals, was founded in 123 BC by the Roman consul Sextius Calvinus as Aquae Sextiae (Waters of Sextius), named for its thermal springs. The city became the historic capital of Provence and remains the cultural heart of the region. Known as the "City of a Thousand Fountains," Aix boasts over 100 fountains, though the actual count is closer to 40, each with its own history and character. The city's golden age was in the 17th and 18th centuries when it served as the seat of the Parliament of Provence, resulting in the magnificent private mansions (hôtels particuliers) that line the Cours Mirabeau and surrounding streets. Today, with a population of approximately 145,000, Aix combines historic preservation with vibrant university life, hosting 40,000 students at Aix-Marseille University.
Cézanne's City
Aix-en-Provence is inextricably linked to Post-Impressionist painter Paul Cézanne, who was born here in 1839 and spent most of his life in the city. His famous declaration, "When you're born there, that's it, nothing else appeals," reflects his deep connection to Aix's light and landscape. The city preserves multiple Cézanne sites: his birthplace, his last studio (Atelier des Lauves), the Bibémus quarries he painted, and the Mont Sainte-Victoire that appears in 44 of his oil paintings and 43 watercolors. Beyond Cézanne, Aix has been home to writer Émile Zola (Cézanne's childhood friend), painter François Marius Granet, and modern novelist Albert Camus. The city's cultural calendar includes the prestigious Festival d'Aix-en-Provence (opera), the International Piano Festival, and numerous art exhibitions.
Architectural Harmony
Aix's urban fabric showcases remarkable architectural continuity from the Roman era through to the 18th century. The historic center, with its narrow medieval streets, opens onto grand Baroque and Classical squares. The iconic Cours Mirabeau, planted with double rows of plane trees in 1705, divides the city between the aristocratic Mazarin quarter (south) and the medieval Old Town (north). The city's signature golden stone, quarried from the nearby Bibémus and Les Baux regions, glows in the Provençal light. Remarkably preserved, Aix's historic center contains over 150 classified monuments, creating one of France's most harmonious urban ensembles, where even modern interventions respect the traditional scale and materials, making every stroll an architectural education.
City Highlights
Population: 145,000 (40,000 students)
Fountains: 40+ throughout city
Founded: 123 BC as Aquae Sextiae
Monuments: 150+ classified historical
Nicknames: City of a Thousand Fountains, Cézanne's City
First Steps on Cours Mirabeau
My introduction to Aix began on the Cours Mirabeau, the city's iconic boulevard. Entering from the Rotonde fountain, I was immediately struck by the perfect harmony: double rows of plane trees (planted 1705) creating a green cathedral nave, 17th-18th century mansions with elaborate facades on one side, bustling cafés on the other. I walked slowly, noticing details: the moss-covered King René fountain with its statue of Good King René holding Muscat grapes, the thermal water fountain (still flowing at 34°C) where locals fill bottles, the carved stone faces watching from above doorways. Choosing a café terrace, I ordered a café crème and watched Aix life unfold: students with backpacks debating philosophy, elderly ladies with shopping bags, tourists consulting maps. The light filtering through the plane trees created moving patterns on the golden stone. This boulevard, laid out in 1650, felt both historic and completely alive. That first hour established Aix's character: elegant yet relaxed, monumental yet human-scale, preserving its past while fully engaging with the present. I understood why Cézanne couldn't leave - this wasn't just architecture, but a way of living, perfected over centuries.
Travel Guide
Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Tourist Season | Peak: June-September, July for festival Shoulder: April-May, September-October (pleasant) Winter: November-March (quieter, some closures) Markets: Daily morning markets year-round Festivals: Check specific dates (many summer) |
| Key Attractions Costs | Cézanne's Studio: €6.50 adults Granet Museum: €8 adults (collection + Cézanne) Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur: Free (cloister €2) Guided walking tours: €10-€15 per person Pass Aix-en-Provence: €15-€25 (multiple sites) Many churches and public spaces free |
| Best Time to Visit | For weather: May-June, September-October For festivals: July (opera festival) For markets: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday mornings To avoid crowds: November-March, weekday mornings Photography: Early morning or late afternoon light |
| Suggested Duration | Day trip: Possible from Marseille (30 min) Weekend: 2-3 days for city highlights + Cézanne Week: 5-7 days for city + surrounding Provence Extended stay: Popular for longer cultural immersion |
| Getting There | Train: TGV from Paris (3h), Marseille (30 min), Nice (2h) Bus: From Marseille airport (30 min), regional services Car: A51 motorway, parking difficult in center Plane: Marseille Provence Airport (25 km, 30 min) Walking: City center completely walkable |
Visiting Tips
Parking: Use park-and-ride, avoid driving in center
Walking: Wear comfortable shoes, historic center is pedestrian
Markets: Visit early (8-10 AM) for best selection
Passes: Consider museum pass for multiple visits
Language: French predominant, English spoken in tourist areas
Must-See Sites
Cézanne's Studio - Preserved as he left it
Saint-Sauveur Cathedral - Architectural mix
Place d'Albertas - Perfect Baroque square
Following Cézanne's Footsteps
I dedicated a day to following Paul Cézanne's trail through Aix. Starting at his birthplace on Rue de l'Opéra (now a bank, marked with plaque), I walked to his family home, Jas de Bouffan (sadly not open to public but visible from street). Next, the Granet Museum, which despite his famous falling out with the city, now houses eight of his paintings including early works. The highlight was Cézanne's Studio (Atelier des Lauves), preserved exactly as he left it at his death in 1906. Entering the north-lit studio, I saw his easel, paint box, personal objects, even the skulls and drapery from his paintings. The caretaker demonstrated how the movable wall allowed Cézanne to control light. From there, I took the "Cézanne bus" (marked with his portrait) to the Bibémus quarries, where he rented a cabin. Walking among the ochre rocks, I recognized formations from his paintings. The day ended at the Terrain des Peintres viewpoint, watching sunset paint Mont Sainte-Victoire in the exact colors he captured. This pilgrimage connected art to place, understanding how Aix's particular light and landscape shaped his vision, and why he returned obsessively to the same subjects, finding infinite variation in his native terrain.
Travel Experiences
Morning Markets - Food, flowers, fabrics
Festival d'Aix - Opera and music festival
Café Culture - Historic terraces and people-watching
Unique Experiences
- Cézanne Trail: Visit his studio, Bibémus quarries, painting sites
- Fountain Tour: Discover 40+ fountains with different histories
- Market Days: Food, flower, and antique markets (different days)
- Festival d'Aix: World-class opera festival in July
- Calisson Making: Learn to make Aix's signature almond sweet
- Historic Mansions: Visit hôtels particuliers with courtyards
- Wine Tasting: Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence vineyards nearby
- Cooking Classes: Provençal cuisine with local chefs
Saturday Morning Market on Place Richelme
I arrived at Place Richelme at 8:00 AM as the Saturday market was setting up. The air already smelled of fresh bread, ripe cheese, and coffee. Stalls displayed Provençal bounty: pyramids of tomatoes in every hue, olives in briny barrels, rounds of goat cheese decorated with herbs, bunches of lavender tied with ribbon. I watched the ritual unfold: regulars greeting vendors by name, discussing the week's produce, exchanging recipes. At a fromagerie, I sampled Banon cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves. The fishmonger explained each catch's origin. The flower stall was a rainbow of seasonal blooms. Following local advice, I bought ingredients for lunch: a baguette still warm, tapenade, fresh figs, and a slice of pissaladière (onion tart). Sitting at a café with my purchases, I witnessed the market's social function: neighbors meeting, students buying weekly supplies, chefs selecting ingredients. This wasn't shopping; it was community theater, connecting city to countryside, understanding Provence's agricultural rhythm. The market revealed Aix not as museum but as living organism, nourished by the surrounding terroir, maintaining traditions while embracing the present.
Tips & Notes
City Etiquette
- Respect pedestrian zones - no cycling in historic center
- Keep voices moderate in residential areas (narrow streets echo)
- Ask permission before photographing people at markets
- Dress respectfully when visiting churches (covered shoulders)
- Don't touch fountains or thermal water sources
- Keep right on narrow sidewalks
- Dispose of trash properly (many recycling bins provided)
Practical Tips
- Use park-and-ride system (Parking Relais) - cheap and efficient
- Get city map from tourist office - maze-like streets confusing
- Carry cash for markets and smaller shops
- Wear comfortable walking shoes (cobblestones uneven)
- Book restaurants in advance, especially weekends
- Check opening times - many shops close 12-2 PM, Monday mornings
- Drink from fountains marked "eau potable" (drinkable)
Photography Tips
Light: Golden hour for golden stone buildings
Fountains: Early morning for reflections, less crowds
Markets: Arrive as setting up for best light and scenes
Details: Door knockers, carved faces, wrought iron
Cours Mirabeau: Midday for dappled light through plane trees
Respect: Ask before photographing market vendors
FAQs
Essential Cézanne locations:
- 1. Cézanne's Studio (Atelier des Lauves)
- Location: 9 Avenue Paul Cézanne (north of center)
- What: His last studio, preserved as he left it in 1906
- Highlights: Easel, personal objects, movable wall for light control
- Duration: 1-1.5 hours
- Tip: Book ahead in summer, limited capacity
- 2. Granet Museum
- Location: Place Saint-Jean de Malte
- What: Major museum with 8 Cézanne paintings + archaeological collection
- Highlights: Early works, portrait of his father, modern wing
- Duration: 2-3 hours
- Note: He famously fell out with museum during his lifetime
- 3. Bibémus Quarries (Carrières de Bibémus)
- Location: East of city (take shuttle or drive)
- What: Ochre quarries he painted, cabin he rented
- Highlights: Recognize rock formations from paintings, guided tour essential
- Duration: 1.5-2 hours with tour
- Access: Guided tours only, book in advance
- 4. Terrain des Peintres
- Location: Avenue Paul Cézanne (near studio)
- What: Viewpoint of Mont Sainte-Victoire he painted 87 times
- Highlights: Same perspective as his paintings, information panels
- Duration: 30 minutes
- Best time: Late afternoon for sunset light
- 5. Birthplace and Significant Locations
- Birthplace: 28 Rue de l'Opéra (plaque only, private bank)
- Family home: Jas de Bouffan (view from street, not open)
- School: Collège Mignet (where he met Zola)
- Burial: Saint-Pierre Cemetery (simple grave)
- 6. Cézanne Pass
- Available: Combines studio + Bibémus + Granet Museum
- Cost: €13.50 (saves €5 compared to individual)
- Valid: 6 months from first use
- Walking Route: Tourist office provides Cézanne walking tour map
Notable fountains and their histories:
- La Rotonde (1860)
- Location: Place du Général de Gaulle (city entrance)
- Features: Largest fountain, three statues (Justice, Agriculture, Fine Arts)
- History: Built when city walls demolished, symbol of modern Aix
- Water: City water, not thermal
- Iconic: Most photographed, meeting point
- Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins (1667)
- Location: Place des Quatre Dauphins (Mazarin quarter)
- Features: Four dolphins spouting water, obelisk with pine cone
- History: First fountain in new Mazarin district, designed by sculptor Jean-Claude Rambot
- Style: Baroque, much loved by locals
- Fontaine du Roi René (1819)
- Location: Cours Mirabeau (upper end)
- Features: Statue of Good King René holding Muscat grapes
- History: René of Anjou (1409-1480) introduced Muscat grapes to Provence
- Significance: Honors beloved monarch who made Aix cultural center
- Fontaine d'Eau Chaude (Thermal Water Fountain)
- Location: Cours Mirabeau (mid-way, south side)
- Features: Moss-covered, 34°C thermal water flows constantly
- History: Original Roman thermal source, locals fill bottles for therapeutic use
- Temperature: Constant 34°C (93°F) year-round
- Fontaine Moussue
- Location: Cours Mirabeau (lower end)
- Features: Completely covered in moss from constant moisture
- Character: Natural sculpture created by time and water
- Fontaine des Augustins (16th century)
- Location: Place des Augustins
- History: Originally supplied convent, carved stone basin
- Fontaine des Tanneurs (1761)
- Location: Rue des Tanneurs (old tannery district)
- History: Supplied water to leather tanneries, simple utilitarian design
- Fountain Tour Tips:
- Pick up fountain map from tourist office
- Many are drinking water (marked "eau potable")
- Each has different water source (thermal, spring, city)
- Some only flow at certain times
- Why So Many Fountains: Originally practical (water supply), now decorative and historical
Aix's signature sweet:
- What is a Calisson?
- A traditional French candy originating in Aix-en-Provence
- Shape: Small, diamond-shaped lozenge
- Ingredients: Ground almonds, candied melon (and sometimes orange peel), topped with royal icing
- Texture: Chewy, marzipan-like
- Flavor: Subtle, not overly sweet, distinctive melon-almond taste
- Protected: Since 1991, must be made in Aix region with specific ingredients
- History:
- Dates to 17th century, possibly earlier
- Legend: First served at King René's second wedding in 1473
- Name: Possibly from Latin "calis" (stone) or Provençal "can" (here) and "lasson" (little smooth stone)
- Tradition: Eaten at Christmas and Easter, now year-round
- Where to Buy:
- Bechard: 12 Cours Mirabeau (oldest, since 1870)
- Bombaton: 2 Place des Prêcheurs (family since 1927)
- L'Art du Calisson: 7 Rue Portalis (workshops available)
- Le Roy René: Multiple locations, most famous producer
- Markets: Some market stalls sell artisanal versions
- Where to Try/Taste:
- Free samples: Most shops offer samples
- Calisson-making workshops: Several shops offer classes (reserve ahead)
- Calisson Museum: At Le Roy René factory (outside center)
- Cafés: Often served with coffee
- Varieties:
- Traditional: Melon and almond
- Modern: Chocolate, raspberry, lemon, lavender
- Seasonal: Different flavors for holidays
- How to Eat:
- With coffee as mid-morning snack
- After meal as dessert
- With sweet wine (Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise)
- Buying Tips:
- Freshness: Best within 3 months
- Packaging: Traditional boxes make good gifts
- Price: €20-€40 per kilogram
- Authenticity: Look for "Calisson d'Aix" label
- Cultural Significance: More than candy - symbol of Aix, protected heritage product
Aix's market system:
- Daily Flower Market
- Location: Place de l'Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall Square)
- When: Every morning 8:00 AM - 1:00 PM
- What: Cut flowers, potted plants, seasonal blooms
- Atmosphere: Colorful, fragrant, locals buying daily flowers
- Best for: Photography, small bouquets
- Food Markets
- Main Food Market: Place Richelme (daily 8:00 AM - 1:00 PM)
- Larger Market: Place des Prêcheurs (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday mornings)
- What: Fresh produce, cheese, olives, bread, prepared foods
- Producers: Many local farmers, some organic (biologique)
- Best time: 8:00-10:00 AM for best selection
- Clothing & Textile Market
- Location: Place de Verdun
- When: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday mornings
- What: Clothing, fabrics, linens, Provençal prints
- Bargains: Good for inexpensive clothing, traditional fabrics
- Antique/Flea Market
- Location: Place de l'Hôtel de Ville and surrounding streets
- When: Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday mornings (larger Saturday)
- What: Antiques, books, postcards, bric-a-brac
- Atmosphere: Treasure hunt, negotiable prices
- Special/Seasonal Markets
- Christmas Market: December, Place de l'Hôtel de Ville
- Lavender Market: July, special lavender products
- Organic Market: Wednesday afternoon, Place Richelme
- Market Etiquette:
- Don't touch produce without asking
- Queue properly (French queue orderly but close)
- Cash preferred, especially at smaller stalls
- Bring your own bag (environmentally friendly)
- Ask before photographing vendors
- Best Market Day: Saturday - all markets operating, most vibrant atmosphere
- Market to Picnic: Buy at market, then picnic in one of Aix's many squares
- Local Tip: Follow the "grandmother test" - stalls with older local women shopping there usually have best quality
Local Cuisine
Traditional Provençal Restaurant
Calisson Shops - Aix's signature sweet
Wine Tasting - Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence
Local Specialties
- Calissons: Almond and melon candies, Aix's signature sweet
- Navettes: Boat-shaped biscuits, often orange-flower flavored
- Banon Cheese: Goat cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves
- Provençal Dishes: Ratatouille, tapenade, aïoli, bouillabaisse
- Wines: Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence (rosé especially)
- Olive Oil: AOC Vallée des Baux-de-Provence
Recommended Restaurants
| Restaurant Name | Location | Specialty | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|
| Le Formal | 32 Rue Espariat | Modern Provençal, market menu | Elegant, Michelin-starred |
| Les Deux Garçons | 53 Cours Mirabeau | Brasserie classics, historic | Legendary café, Cézanne and Picasso haunt |
| Le Mille Feuille | 8 Rue Rifle-Rafle | Bistro, seasonal Provençal | Cozy, popular with locals |
| Bechard | 12 Cours Mirabeau | Pastries, calissons, tea room | Historic pâtisserie, Belle Époque decor |
| Le Poivre d'Âne | 40 Rue Verrerie | Traditional Provençal, hearty | Rustic, good value |
| La Fromagerie du Passage | Passage Agard | Cheese plates, wine, charcuterie | Casual, hidden location |
Dinner at Les Deux Garçons
Dining at Les Deux Garçons (known as "2G" to locals) was stepping into Aix's history. The Belle Époque interior, with its mirrored walls, red banquettes, and carved wood, hasn't changed since Cézanne and Zola debated here in the 1860s. I took a terrace table on Cours Mirabeau for people-watching. The menu offered brasserie classics: I started with the famous soupe de poissons (fish soup) with rouille and croutons. My main was entrecôte with béarnaise, cooked perfectly rare. Around me, the mix was quintessential Aix: elderly gentlemen reading Le Monde, students discussing philosophy, tourists consulting guides. The service was brisk, professional. Between courses, I studied the historical photos: Picasso with friends, Camus writing in a corner. For dessert, île flottante, light as the meringue clouds Cézanne painted. The experience wasn't just about food; it was about continuity. Sitting where artists and writers had sat for 150 years, watching the same plane trees, hearing the same fountains, I felt connected to Aix's intellectual tradition. The meal ended with a calisson (of course) with coffee. Leaving, I understood why this place remains institution: it preserves Aix's essence - elegance, conversation, appreciation of beauty, and the understanding that some things shouldn't change.
Accommodation Recommendations
| Hotel Name | Category | Location | Special Features | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Villa Gallici | Luxury | Av. de la Violette (5 min from center) | 18th-century villa, gardens, pool, gourmet restaurant | €€€€€ |
| Hôtel des Augustins | Boutique | 3 Rue de la Masse (historic center) | Converted 12th-century convent, cloister, central | €€€€ |
| Hôtel Cézanne | Design | 40 Av. Victor Hugo (near station) | Art-themed, cocktail bar, modern design | €€€ |
| Hôtel des Quatre Dauphins | Mid-range | 54 Rue Roux Alphéran (Mazarin) | 19th-century building, named for nearby fountain | €€ |
| Ibis Aix-en-Provence Centre | Budget | 18 Rue Lapierre (near station) | Reliable chain, includes breakfast | €€ |
| Hotel du Globe | Budget | 74 Cours Sextius (south of center) | Simple, good value, family-run | € |
Accommodation Tips
Location: Choose inside boulevard for walkability to everything
Parking: Most hotels have limited parking, book in advance
Noise: Request courtyard room if light sleeper (streets echo)
Book Early: Especially for July festival and summer weekends
Character: Many hotels in historic buildings with modern comfort
Air Conditioning: Essential in summer, confirm before booking
Staying at Hôtel des Augustins
My room at Hôtel des Augustins was in a 12th-century convent converted to a hotel in the 19th century. The vaulted stone ceiling and thick walls created a peaceful silence despite the central location. The hotel's cloister, now a breakfast room, featured original Gothic arches. Each morning, I'd step directly into the historic center, exploring different directions. The location was perfect: 2 minutes to Cours Mirabeau, 5 minutes to markets, 10 minutes to cathedral. The hotel staff were knowledgeable locals, recommending lesser-known squares and cafés. One evening, returning from dinner, I discovered the hotel's small library with books on Aix's history, spending hours learning about the city I was exploring. The blend of ancient structure and modern comfort felt appropriate for Aix - respecting history while embracing present. Waking to church bells rather than traffic, I felt immersed in the city's rhythm. The convenience allowed spontaneous exploration: when I discovered a concert at the cathedral, I could quickly return to change. Staying here didn't just provide accommodation; it deepened my connection to Aix's layers of history, understanding the city as living palimpsest where medieval, Baroque, and contemporary coexist harmoniously.
Travel Itineraries
One-Day Aix Highlights
Morning: Cours Mirabeau stroll + market visit + cathedral
Afternoon: Cézanne's Studio + Granet Museum
Evening: Fountain tour + dinner at historic restaurant
Three-Day Cultural Immersion
Day 1: Historic center + museums + calisson workshop
Day 2: Cézanne sites (studio, Bibémus, Terrain des Peintres)
Day 3: Markets + cooking class + wine tasting
One-Week Aix and Provence Experience
Days 1-2: Aix-en-Provence city exploration
Days 3-4: Luberon villages and lavender fields
Days 5-6: Mediterranean coast (Cassis, Calanques)
Day 7: Mont Sainte-Victoire hike + final Aix evening
One-Day Aix Highlights Route
Three-Day Cultural Immersion Plan
One-Week Aix and Provence Experience
The Perfect Aix Day: From Market to Mont Sainte-Victoire
I designed my perfect Aix day, starting with the 8:00 AM market at Place Richelme. After selecting picnic ingredients and enjoying coffee at a terrace, I visited the 9:00 AM opening of Saint-Sauveur Cathedral, enjoying the quiet before crowds. A 10:00 AM reservation at Cézanne's Studio allowed peaceful viewing. Lunch was a market picnic in the Pavillon de Vendôme gardens. The afternoon began with the Granet Museum's Cézanne collection, followed by a calisson-making workshop at a traditional shop. At 4:00 PM, I took the bus to the Terrain des Peintres, walking to the Bibémus quarries for a 5:00 PM guided tour. As sunset approached, I returned to the viewpoint, watching Mont Sainte-Victoire turn rose-gold, exactly as Cézanne painted it. The evening included an aperitif at Les Deux Garçons, followed by dinner at a small bistro recommended by my hotel. The day wove together Aix's essential threads: Roman foundations, medieval faith, Baroque elegance, Cézanne's vision, culinary tradition, and the eternal mountain. Each element enriched the others, creating a comprehensive experience of why Aix isn't just a city to visit, but a civilization to understand - where art, faith, food, and landscape have conversed for millennia, creating a unique urban masterpiece that continues to inspire.