History & Collections
The Hôtel Salé: A Baroque Masterpiece
The Musée Picasso Paris is housed in the magnificent Hôtel Salé, a 17th-century mansion built between 1656-1659 for Pierre Aubert, a salt tax collector (hence the name "Salé," meaning salted). This stunning example of Parisian Baroque architecture features a grand courtyard, ornate stone carvings, and a beautiful interior staircase. After serving various purposes over centuries, it was designated a historical monument in 1968 and selected in 1974 to become the Picasso Museum, opening to the public in 1985 after extensive renovations.
France's Picasso Collection
Following Picasso's death in 1973, the French government accepted artworks in lieu of inheritance taxes from his heirs, creating the nucleus of the museum's collection. This unique "dation" system allowed France to acquire 203 paintings, 158 sculptures, 16 collages, 29 relief paintings, 88 ceramics, and over 3,000 drawings and engravings. The collection represents every period of Picasso's 75-year career, making it the world's most comprehensive public collection of his work.
Picasso's Personal Collection
Beyond Picasso's own works, the museum displays his personal art collection, featuring works by masters he admired: Cézanne, Degas, Rousseau, Matisse, Miró, and Modigliani. This unique aspect reveals Picasso's artistic influences and friendships, showing the modern master in dialogue with his contemporaries. The collection provides unparalleled insight into Picasso's creative process and the artistic circles in which he moved.
Collection Highlights
Total Works: Over 5,000 by Picasso + personal collection
Building: 17th-century Hôtel Salé (1656-1659)
Periods Covered: Blue, Rose, Cubist, Classical, Surrealist
Special: Picasso's personal art collection displayed
Architecture: Baroque mansion with restored interiors
First Encounter in the Courtyard
I entered the Musée Picasso through the grand stone portal on Rue de Thorigny, stepping into the sun-drenched courtyard of Hôtel Salé. The contrast was immediate: 17th-century Baroque elegance meeting 20th-century revolutionary art. The morning light played on the carved stone façade as visitors gathered around the information desk. Moving into the mansion proper, I climbed the magnificent staircase, its wrought-iron balustrade leading to rooms that felt both aristocratic and intimate. In the first gallery, I encountered Picasso's early work - a self-portrait from 1901, the artist just 20 years old. The progression through the rooms mirrored his artistic evolution: the melancholy blues of his impoverished Paris years gave way to the warmer rose period, then the explosive fragmentation of Cubism. What struck me was how perfectly the mansion's rooms suited the art - not white cubes, but spaces with history, where each artwork seemed to engage in dialogue with the architecture that housed it.
Travel Guide
Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Opening Hours | Tuesday-Friday: 10:30 AM - 6:00 PM Saturday-Sunday: 9:30 AM - 6:00 PM Last entry: 5:15 PM Evening openings until 9:00 PM first Saturday of month Closed: Mondays, January 1, December 25 |
| Ticket Prices | Permanent collection: €14 adults Reduced: €11 (EU 18-25, teachers) Free: Under 18, EU under 26, disabled Paris Museum Pass accepted |
| Best Time to Visit | Weekday afternoons (2-5 PM) Sunday mornings opening (9:30 AM) Avoid first Sunday of month (free entry, crowded) Winter months for smallest crowds |
| Suggested Duration | Minimum: 1.5 hours (highlights) Standard: 2-3 hours (full collection) Comprehensive: 4+ hours (with temporary exhibition) |
| Getting There | Metro: Saint-Paul (Line 1), Saint-Sébastien (Line 8) Bus: Lines 29, 69, 76, 96 Nearby: Place des Vosges, Musée Carnavalet |
Visiting Tips
Tickets: Buy online, especially for temporary exhibitions
Route: Follow chronological order (ground floor to upper)
Audio Guide: Highly recommended (€5, multiple languages)
Photography: Allowed without flash, no tripods
Bags: Free cloakroom for large bags, mandatory for backpacks
Must-See Masterpieces
Self-Portrait 1901 - Blue Period masterpiece
La Celestina - Transition to Rose Period
The Matador - Bronze sculpture series
Following Picasso's Evolution
I visited on a quiet Thursday afternoon, following the museum's chronological layout. Room 1 plunged me into the Blue Period: impoverished figures in cobalt and indigo, their elongated forms expressing profound melancholy. Picasso's 1901 self-portrait showed the 20-year-old artist already a master of emotional expression. Moving to the Rose Period rooms, the palette warmed to terracotta and ochre, the subjects shifting to circus performers. The Cubist rooms presented the revolution: fragmented violins, multiple perspectives, the breakdown of Renaissance space. Here I spent time with studies for Les Demoiselles d'Avignon, seeing the explosive idea develop. The Classical Period surprised me with monumental, sculptural figures reminiscent of antiquity. Finally, the late works - bold, simplified, almost childlike in their directness. What made the experience profound was seeing 75 years of artistic evolution in one afternoon, understanding that Picasso never stopped experimenting, never settled into a single style.
Travel Experiences
Sculpture Garden and Courtyard
Art Workshop for Visitors
Temporary Exhibition Space
Unique Experiences
- Chronological Journey: Follow Picasso's 75-year evolution
- Sculpture Garden: Bronze works in courtyard setting
- Personal Collection: See art owned by Picasso
- Drawing Workshops: Regular sessions for all levels
- Temporary Exhibitions: Picasso in dialogue with contemporaries
- Architecture Tour: Focus on 17th-century Hôtel Salé
- Evening Openings: First Saturday of month until 9 PM
- Children's Activities: Family-friendly art discovery
Picasso's Personal Collection Room
The room displaying Picasso's personal art collection was a revelation. Here were the works that hung in his studios and homes: a majestic Cézanne bather, a tender Degas pastel of dancers, a mysterious Rousseau jungle scene. But most moving was Matisse's portrait of his daughter Marguerite - a gift from the aging Matisse to his friend and rival. The label explained that Picasso kept this portrait in his bedroom until his death. Standing before it, I imagined the two giants of modern art, their competitive friendship spanning decades. Nearby hung a Modigliani portrait, its elongated elegance contrasting with Picasso's more robust figures. A small Braque still life showed the Cubist partnership. This room felt intimate, like being invited into Picasso's private world. Visitors spoke in whispers, as if in a sacred space. An elderly French couple pointed out details to each other, their conversation revealing deep knowledge. This wasn't just viewing art - it was understanding an artist through what he loved.
Tips & Notes
Museum Etiquette
- Maintain reasonable distance from artworks
- No touching any artworks or display cases
- Silence mobile phones or use vibrate mode
- Speak quietly to avoid disturbing others
- No flash photography (damages delicate works)
- Follow directional signs in one-way areas
- Supervise children closely at all times
Practical Tips
- Free cloakroom available (mandatory for large bags)
- Audio guide available in 6 languages (€5)
- Museum café offers courtyard views
- Check website for temporary exhibition schedules
- Free admission first Sunday of month (very crowded)
- Wheelchair accessible with elevator to all floors
- Combination with nearby Le Marais sites recommended
Photography Tips
Lighting: Use available light, no flash allowed
Architecture: Capture staircase, courtyard details
Details: Close-ups of brushstrokes, sculpture textures
Composition: Include room context with artworks
Crowds: Visit early/late for emptier shots
Exterior: Hôtel Salé façade from courtyard
FAQs
Essential works to see (chronological order):
- 1. Self-Portrait (1901)
- Location: Room 1, Blue Period
- Picasso age 20, early masterpiece
- Note: Melancholy blue tones, elongated form
- 2. La Celestina (1904)
- Location: Room 3, transition period
- Moving from Blue to Rose Period
- Note: Warmer palette emerging
- 3. Studies for Les Demoiselles d'Avignon (1907)
- Location: Room 6, early Cubism
- Preparatory drawings for revolutionary work
- Note: Radical break with perspective
- 4. Man with a Guitar (1912)
- Location: Room 7, Analytical Cubism
- Monochromatic fragmentation
- Note: Multiple viewpoints simultaneously
- 5. The Pipes of Pan (1923)
- Location: Room 9, Classical Period
- Monumental figures, antiquity influence
- Note: Return to figurative after Cubism
- 6. The Matador (1970)
- Location: Sculpture garden/courtyard
- Late period bronze
- Note: Simplified, expressive forms
- 7. Picasso's Personal Collection Room
- Works by Cézanne, Matisse, Modigliani
- Shows his influences and friendships
- Unique to this museum
Comparison with other major Picasso museums:
- Musée Picasso Paris (France)
- Focus: Comprehensive career overview
- Strengths: Personal collection, all periods
- Setting: 17th-century mansion in Le Marais
- Unique: Works from French state collection
- Museu Picasso Barcelona (Spain)
- Focus: Early years, formative works
- Strengths: Youthful works, Barcelona connection
- Setting: Medieval palaces in Gothic Quarter
- Unique: Works from before Paris
- Museo Picasso Málaga (Spain)
- Focus: Later works, family collection
- Strengths: 20th-century works, hometown museum
- Setting: Renaissance palace in birthplace
- Unique: Works donated by family
- Key Differences:
- Paris: Most comprehensive, all periods
- Barcelona: Best for early development
- Málaga: Strong on late works
- If Visiting All Three:
- Barcelona: Youth and formation
- Paris: Maturity and evolution
- Málaga: Late years and legacy
- Paris Unique Aspect: Only one with Picasso's personal art collection
The dation system explained:
- Definition: French system allowing payment of inheritance taxes with artworks
- Created: 1968 cultural heritage law
- Picasso Dation: 1979 agreement with heirs
- Works Acquired:
- 203 paintings
- 158 sculptures
- 16 collages
- 29 relief paintings
- 88 ceramics
- 1,500+ drawings
- 1,600+ engravings
- Value: Equivalent of estimated inheritance taxes
- Process:
- Heirs offer artworks to state
- Expert committee evaluates
- State accepts selection
- Works become national collection
- Significance:
- Created world's best Picasso public collection
- Kept works in France (where Picasso lived/worked)
- Established museum dedicated to living artist's work
- Other Dations: Similar systems used for Braque, Miró, Léger estates
- Result: France owns major collections of 20th-century masters
Other Picasso locations in Paris:
- 1. Centre Pompidou
- Several important Picasso works
- Part of modern art collection
- Location: Beaubourg, 4th arrondissement
- 2. Musée d'Art Moderne de Paris
- Works from city collection
- Often in temporary exhibitions
- Location: Palais de Tokyo, 16th arrondissement
- 3. Musée de l'Orangerie
- Part of Walter-Guillaume collection
- Early Cubist works
- Location: Tuileries Garden, 1st arrondissement
- 4. Former Studios/Residences
- Bateau-Lavoir (Montmartre) - early career
- Rue La Boétie apartment - 1920s
- Grands-Augustins studio - painted Guernica
- Most not open to public, exterior viewing only
- 5. Public Sculpture
- Chicago Picasso (gift to city, not in Paris)
- Few public works in Paris itself
- Picasso's Paris Timeline:
- 1900-1904: Montmartre, Blue Period
- 1904-1909: Bateau-Lavoir, Rose Period, early Cubism
- 1912-1917: Montparnasse, developed Cubism
- 1918-1937: Various right bank addresses
- 1937-1955: Grands-Augustins studio, war years
- 1955-1973: Mainly south of France, visits to Paris
- Best Combo: Musée Picasso + walking tour of studios
Local Cuisine
Le Marais Historic Café
Jewish Delicatessen in Le Marais
Artistic Pastry near Museum
Le Marais Food Scene
- Falafel: Rue des Rosiers famous falafel stands
- Jewish Delicatessen: Traditional ashkenazi specialties
- Artisan Bakeries: Best baguettes in Paris nearby
- Vintage Cafés: Historic bistros with original decor
- Cheese Shops: Fromageries with local selections
- Wine Bars: Natural wine movement strong here
Recommended Restaurants
| Restaurant Name | Distance | Specialty | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chez Janou | 5-minute walk | Provençal cuisine, 80 pastis varieties | Bustling bistro, artistic crowd |
| L'As du Fallafel | 8-minute walk | Famous falafel, lines worth it | Casual, takeaway or limited seating |
| Breizh Café | 10-minute walk | Artisan crêpes, organic cider | Modern, design-focused |
| Robert et Louise | 3-minute walk | Traditional steak frites, open fireplace | Rustic, historic building |
| Le Loir dans la Théière | 7-minute walk | Huge pastries, all-day tea room | Bohemian, relaxed |
| Musée Picasso Café | Inside museum | Light meals, courtyard views | Elegant, convenient |
Lunch at Chez Janou
After a morning with Picasso, I lunched at Chez Janou, a bustling Provençal bistro just minutes from the museum. The walls were covered with vintage posters and paintings, creating a warm, artistic atmosphere that felt like a natural extension of my museum visit. I ordered the "plateau de crudités" - a stunning array of Mediterranean vegetable preparations that arrived like a painter's palette. My main was daube de boeuf, a rich beef stew that reminded me of Picasso's southern French years. The real spectacle was the dessert trolley: a rolling masterpiece of tarts, mousses, and cakes. I chose the legendary chocolate mousse, served in a giant bowl for the table to share (though I was dining alone, the waiter insisted I take a generous portion). Around me, conversations in French and English mixed with the clatter of cutlery. A group at the next table debated Picasso's late works while sharing a carafe of rosé. The energy was lively but unhurried - perfect Le Marais ambiance. Finishing with an espresso, I felt perfectly positioned to continue exploring the neighborhood's artistic heritage.
Accommodation Recommendations
| Hotel Name | Category | Distance | Special Features | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pavillon de la Reine | Luxury | 2-minute walk | 16th-century building, Place des Vosges | €€€€€ |
| Hôtel du Petit Moulin | Boutique Design | 5-minute walk | Christian Lacroix design, historic bakery | €€€€ |
| Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais | Heritage | 8-minute walk | 18th-century decor, period atmosphere | €€€ |
| Hôtel Jeanne d'Arc Le Marais | Comfort | 10-minute walk | Family-run, includes breakfast | €€ |
| Hôtel de Nice | Mid-range | 12-minute walk | Colorful decor, good value | €€ |
| Young & Happy Hostel | Budget | 15-minute walk | Social atmosphere, private rooms available | € |
Accommodation Tips
Location: Le Marais is perfect for museums, dining, nightlife
Character: Hotels often in historic buildings with charm
Transport: Excellent metro access throughout neighborhood
Noise: Interior courtyard rooms avoid street noise
Book Early: Le Marais hotels popular year-round
Weekends: More lively, some shops closed Sunday/Monday
Staying at Hôtel du Petit Moulin
My room at Hôtel du Petit Moulin was a work of art itself. Christian Lacroix had designed each room uniquely, mine featuring bold floral patterns, velvet upholstery, and whimsical details that felt both luxurious and playful - a perfect complement to the Picasso experience. The hotel occupied a former bakery (the original oven remained in the breakfast room), with a façade classified as a historical monument. Each morning, I walked to the museum through the waking streets of Le Marais, passing antique shops just opening their shutters, bakers arranging morning pastries. The location was ideal: not just near the Picasso Museum, but also the Carnavalet, the Archives Nationales, and the beautiful Place des Vosges. One evening, returning from dinner, I found the museum's gates still open for a special event. From the street, I could see into the illuminated courtyard, sculptures casting long shadows. Staying in Le Marais meant living the neighborhood's rhythm, understanding why artists have loved it for centuries.
Travel Itineraries
Half-Day Art Focus
Morning (10:30 AM-1 PM): Musée Picasso chronological tour
Lunch (1-2 PM): Le Marais bistro (Chez Janou or similar)
Afternoon (2-5 PM): Place des Vosges → Musée Carnavalet
Full-Day Le Marais Exploration
Morning: Musée Picasso → Picasso's personal collection
Afternoon: Jewish Quarter (Rue des Rosiers) → Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du JudaïsmeEvening: Dinner in Le Marais → Night walk to Centre Pompidou
Three-Day Paris Modern Art Tour
Day 1: Musée Picasso → Le Marais galleries → Centre Pompidou
Day 2: Musée d'Orsay → Rodin Museum → Eiffel Tower area
Day 3: Montmartre (Picasso's early studios) → Sacré-Cœur → Musée de Montmartre
Half-Day Le Marais Art Walk
Full-Day Modern Art Experience
Three-Day Paris Modern Art Tour
Picasso's Paris: From Le Marais to Montmartre
I dedicated a day to tracing Picasso's Paris years, starting at the Musée Picasso in Le Marais. After understanding his full career evolution, I walked to the nearby Place des Vosges, where Picasso had friends in the 1920s. A metro ride took me to Montmartre, where Picasso lived from 1900-1904. I visited the Bateau-Lavoir (exterior only), the legendary artists' residence where he painted Les Demoiselles d'Avignon. Though the original burned, a reconstruction stands on the site. Nearby, the Montmartre Museum has works by his contemporaries. I lunched at a café Picasso supposedly frequented, then walked to his later Montparnasse haunts. The day ended at the Grands-Augustins studio (now a restaurant), where he painted Guernica during the Spanish Civil War. This geographical journey made the museum collection come alive: the Blue Period works painted in cold Montmartre rooms, the prosperous 1920s works from Le Marais addresses, the war years near Saint-Germain. Picasso's art wasn't created in a vacuum - it responded to the Paris around him.