History & Significance
Louis XIV's Vision for Veterans
Les Invalides, officially known as Hôtel National des Invalides, was commissioned by King Louis XIV in 1670 to provide housing and hospital care for aging and disabled soldiers. Designed by architect Libéral Bruant, the complex was completed in 1676 and could accommodate up to 4,000 veterans. The golden-domed Église du Dôme (Dome Church) was added by Jules Hardouin-Mansart between 1677-1706, creating the iconic silhouette visible across Paris.
Napoleon's Final Resting Place
In 1840, Napoleon Bonaparte's remains were returned from Saint Helena and interred beneath the dome in a monumental tomb designed by Louis Visconti. The red quartzite sarcophagus rests on a green granite pedestal, surrounded by twelve "Victory" statues and reliefs depicting Napoleon's achievements. The tomb chamber became France's most important military memorial and pilgrimage site.
France's Military Memory
Today, Les Invalides houses the Musée de l'Armée (Army Museum), one of the world's largest military history museums, plus the Musée des Plans-Reliefs (Relief Maps Museum), and the Musée de l'Ordre de la Libération. The complex remains an active military site with the Veterans' Administration and occasional military ceremonies.
Architectural Highlights
Complex Size: 15 hectares, 16 courtyards
Dome Height: 107 meters (351 feet)
Gold Leaf: 12kg of gold on the dome (last regilded 1989)
Napoleon's Tomb: Red quartzite sarcophagus, 5 meters long
Original Capacity: 4,000 veteran residents
First Approach to the Golden Dome
I first saw Les Invalides from the Pont Alexandre III at sunset. The golden dome, glowing in the evening light, seemed to float above the complex. Entering through the main gate on Place Vauban, I was struck by the scale: the 196-meter long façade stretched in both directions. The Cour d'Honneur (Court of Honor) contained rows of historic cannons, their bronze barrels gleaming. As I walked toward the dome, the sound of my footsteps echoed in the vast courtyard. Entering the Église du Dôme, the space took my breath away: sunlight streamed through the windows, illuminating the marble floor and catching the gold leaf. And there, in the center, was Napoleon's tomb - larger, redder, more monumental than any photo could convey. A French family stood silently nearby, a child asking questions in a whisper. In that hushed space, I felt the weight of French history - not just Napoleon, but centuries of soldiers who passed through these gates seeking shelter and honor.
Travel Guide
Practical Information
| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| Opening Hours | April-October: 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM daily November-March: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM daily Closed: January 1, May 1, December 25 Tuesdays open until 9:00 PM (April-Sept) |
| Ticket Prices | Full ticket: €14 adults Reduced: €11 (under 26, students) Free: Under 18, EU under 26, disabled Paris Museum Pass accepted |
| Best Time to Visit | Weekday mornings (opening at 10 AM) Avoid Sunday afternoons (busiest) Tuesday evenings in summer (extended hours) Winter weekdays for smallest crowds |
| Suggested Duration | Minimum: 2-3 hours Comprehensive visit: 4-5 hours Full day: 6-8 hours for all museums |
| Getting There | Metro: La Tour-Maubourg (Line 8), Invalides (Line 8,13) RER: Invalides (Line C) Bus: Lines 28, 63, 69, 80, 82, 83, 87, 92, 93 |
Visiting Tips
Tickets: Buy online to skip queues, especially in summer
Timing: Start with Napoleon's Tomb (most crowded area)
Audio Guide: Highly recommended (€6, available in 8 languages)
Comfort: Wear comfortable shoes - extensive walking
Bags: Large backpacks not allowed, free cloakroom available
Must-See Highlights
Napoleon's Tomb - Red quartzite sarcophagus
Army Museum - Historic cannons and armor
Cour d'Honneur - Historic cannons display
A Morning with Napoleon
I arrived at opening time on a Wednesday in March, heading straight to Napoleon's Tomb to avoid crowds. The morning light through the dome windows created dramatic shadows on the sarcophagus. I spent 30 minutes just walking around the tomb, reading the inscriptions listing Napoleon's victories: Austerlitz, Jena, Friedland. The scale was overwhelming - the tomb itself, the surrounding statues, the marble balustrade from which you look down. In the crypt below, I found the tombs of Napoleon's son (the King of Rome) and his brothers. What struck me was the silence - despite 50 other visitors, everyone spoke in whispers. An elderly French veteran stood at attention by the tomb, then saluted before leaving. Later, in the Army Museum, I saw Napoleon's personal effects: his gray coat from Marengo, his campaign bed, even the stuffed body of his horse, Vizir. The personal artifacts made the monumental tomb feel connected to a real man, not just a legend.
Travel Experiences
Changing of the Guard Ceremony
World War I & II Exhibitions
Golden Dome Illuminated at Night
Unique Experiences
- Napoleon's Tomb: Pay respects at France's most important tomb
- Army Museum: One of world's largest military collections
- Changing of Guard: Daily ceremony at main courtyard (schedule varies)
- Relief Maps Museum: 16th-19th century fortification models
- WWI & WWII Wings: Comprehensive modern military history
- Evening Illumination: Golden dome lit after dark
- Military Ceremonies: Occasional parades and events
- Architecture Tour: 17th century military hospital design
The Army Museum's WWI Wing
The World War I section of the Army Museum was the most powerful museum experience I've had in Paris. Entering the chronological display, I was immediately surrounded by the artifacts of 1914: bright red French uniforms, spiked German helmets, optimistic patriotic posters. As I moved through the years, the displays grew darker: mud-stained uniforms, barbed wire, a reconstructed trench with sound effects of artillery. The personal items were most moving: a soldier's illustrated diary, a wedding ring fused with shrapnel, letters home that would never be read. The centerpiece was a genuine Renault FT-17 tank, the kind that broke the stalemate. What made this museum exceptional was its balance - it honored French soldiers while acknowledging the universal tragedy. German, British, and American perspectives were included. In the final room, displaying the cost - thousands of names on memorials, prosthetic limbs, shell shock treatments - I saw French and German visitors standing side by side, equally moved by the shared history.
Tips & Notes
Museum Etiquette
- Maintain respectful silence at Napoleon's Tomb
- No flash photography in any museum areas
- Do not touch military artifacts or displays
- Keep voices low in all museum spaces
- Follow directional signs in one-way areas
- Allow veterans and military personnel priority viewing
- Children must be supervised at all times
Practical Tips
- Pick up free map at entrance - complex is large and confusing
- Start early to see Napoleon's Tomb with fewer people
- Allow extra time for security screening at entrance
- Check website for temporary exhibition closures
- Free Wi-Fi available throughout complex
- Water fountains available, bring refillable bottle
- Restrooms located near each museum entrance
Photography Tips
Exterior: Best from Champ de Mars or Pont Alexandre III
Golden Dome: Late afternoon for warm light on gold leaf
Napoleon's Tomb: Wide angle needed, high ISO allowed
Cannons: Morning light in Cour d'Honneur
Interiors: No flash, use high ISO settings
Night Shots: Tripod from across Seine for reflections
FAQs
Napoleon's burial at Les Invalides:
- Yes, Napoleon Bonaparte is buried at Les Invalides
- Date of Burial: Returned from Saint Helena in 1840, interred 1861
- Tomb Design: Red quartzite sarcophagus by Louis Visconti
- Location: Beneath the golden dome in Église du Dôme
- What's Inside: Napoleon's remains in six nested coffins:
- 1. Tinplate
- 2. Mahogany
- 3. Lead
- 4. Ebony
- 5. Oak
- 6. Red quartzite (visible)
- Other Burials: Also contains Napoleon's son, brothers, and French military heroes
- Visiting: Open to public, most visited part of Les Invalides
- Ceremonies: Still used for state military funerals
Time allocation recommendations:
- Minimum Visit (2-3 hours):
- Napoleon's Tomb: 45 minutes
- Cour d'Honneur (cannons): 20 minutes
- WWI or WWII wing: 1 hour
- Ancient armor collection: 30 minutes
- Standard Visit (4-5 hours):
- Napoleon's Tomb & Dome Church: 1 hour
- Army Museum (main collections): 2 hours
- Courtyards and exteriors: 30 minutes
- Relief Maps Museum: 30 minutes
- Break/rest: 30 minutes
- Comprehensive Visit (6-8 hours):
- All museums in detail: 4-5 hours
- Audio guide full use: +1 hour
- Temporary exhibitions: 1 hour
- Lunch break: 1 hour
- Photography/contemplation: 1 hour
- Best Strategy: Two half-day visits if deeply interested
Current veteran presence at Les Invalides:
- Yes, veterans still reside at Les Invalides
- Current Residents: Approximately 100 elderly/injured veterans
- Living Areas: Separate from museum areas (northwest wing)
- Services Provided:
- Medical care and hospital facilities
- Assisted living accommodations
- Social services and community
- Chapel and religious services
- Administration: Still headquarters of French Veterans Administration
- Visible Presence: You may see residents in:
- Saint-Louis Cathedral (weekly services)
- Gardens and courtyards
- Hospital and care facilities
- Respect: Please be respectful of residential areas
- Continuity: Still fulfilling Louis XIV's original 1670 mission
Ceremonies accessible to the public:
- Daily: Changing of the Guard (hours vary, check schedule)
- Weekly: Military mass in Saint-Louis Cathedral (Sundays 10:30 AM)
- Seasonal:
- Bastille Day (July 14) - Military parade preparations
- Armistice Day (November 11) - Wreath-laying at tomb
- Napoleon's death anniversary (May 5)
- Special Events:
- Promotion ceremonies for military schools
- Veteran association gatherings
- Memorial services for historical events
- Viewing Areas:
- Cour d'Honneur for courtyard ceremonies
- Public galleries in Saint-Louis Cathedral
- Exterior areas for parades
- Etiquette:
- Stand during national anthem
- Remove hats during ceremonies
- No photography during religious services
- Follow instructions from military personnel
Local Cuisine
Traditional French Officer's Meal
Parisian Café near Military School
Local Boulangerie for Quick Lunch
Historic Military Cuisine
- Pot-au-Feu: Traditional French beef stew, army staple
- Cassoulet: Hearty bean stew with preserved meats
- Ratatouille: Provençal vegetable stew
- Coq au Vin: Chicken in red wine sauce
- Boeuf Bourguignon: Beef braised in red wine
- French Onion Soup: Classic warming soup
- Hard Tack: Historic military bread (available in museum shop)
Recommended Restaurants
| Restaurant Name | Distance | Specialty | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|---|
| Le Café de l'Esplanade | 5-minute walk | Traditional brasserie, great terrace | Art Deco, views of Invalides |
| Les Cocottes | 8-minute walk | Modern French in cast iron pots | Contemporary, chef Christian Constant |
| Le Bourdonnais | 3-minute walk | Haute cuisine, tasting menus | Elegant, white tablecloths |
| Le Petit Châtelet | 10-minute walk | Affordable bistro classics | Cozy, local favorite |
| Musée de l'Armée Café | Inside museum | Quick sandwiches, salads, pastries | Convenient, courtyard views |
| Boulangerie Maline | 2-minute walk | Fresh baguettes, sandwiches | Takeaway, budget option |
Lunch at Le Café de l'Esplanade
After a morning exploring Napoleon's Tomb, I lunched at Le Café de l'Esplanade, an Art Deco gem facing Les Invalides. The terrace offered perfect views of the golden dome. I ordered the "Menu du Soldat" - a historical menu based on WWI soldier rations. It began with potage (a thick vegetable soup), followed by boeuf bourguignon served in a traditional mess tin. The dessert was "pain perdu" (French toast) - simple but satisfying. As I ate, I watched French military officers in uniform enter Les Invalides for meetings, and tourists studying maps on the benches outside. The restaurant's interior preserved its 1930s charm: zinc bar, mosaic floor, vintage posters of military parades. My waiter explained that the café had served generations of soldiers and their families. Finishing with an espresso, I realized this was more than lunch - it was continuing a tradition. The food, the location, the history all connected me to the military heritage I'd been exploring all morning.
Accommodation Recommendations
| Hotel Name | Category | Distance | Special Features | Price Range |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hôtel des Invalides | Boutique Luxury | Opposite complex | Direct dome views, Napoleon-themed decor | €€€€ |
| Hôtel Le Tourville | Design Hotel | 3-minute walk | Military chic design, personalized service | €€€€ |
| Hôtel de Lille | Comfort | 5-minute walk | Family-run, includes breakfast, cozy | €€€ |
| Hôtel de la Motte Picquet | Mid-range | 8-minute walk | Good value, military school neighborhood | €€ |
| Hôtel de Varenne | Budget | 10-minute walk | Simple, clean, excellent location | € |
| Mercure Paris Centre Tour Eiffel | Business Hotel | 12-minute walk | Modern amenities, between Invalides & Eiffel | €€€ |
Accommodation Tips
Views: Rooms facing Invalides cost 30-50% more
Neighborhood: 7th arrondissement is upscale and safe
Transport: Excellent metro connections from all hotels
Military Events: Book early for Bastille Day (July 14)
Quiet: Interior courtyard rooms avoid street noise
Walking Distance: All hotels walkable to Eiffel Tower too
Room with a View at Hôtel des Invalides
My room at Hôtel des Invalides faced the golden dome directly. Waking to that view - the first morning light hitting the gold leaf - was worth every euro. The hotel embraced its military theme with taste: framed historical prints, a library of Napoleon biographies, even the room keys were attached to miniature sabers. From my balcony, I could watch the daily rhythm of Les Invalides: the morning guard change, school groups arriving, veterans gathering in the gardens. At night, the illuminated dome seemed to float above the dark complex. The hotel's location in the 7th arrondissement meant quiet, elegant streets. Each morning, I'd buy a croissant from the boulangerie next door and eat it on my balcony, planning my day's exploration. One evening, returning from dinner, I found the dome lit in special colors for a military ceremony. The hotel manager explained it was a promotion ceremony for the École de Guerre. Staying here wasn't just convenient - it made me feel connected to the living history of Les Invalides.
Travel Itineraries
Half-Day Military History Tour
Morning (10 AM-1 PM): Napoleon's Tomb → Dome Church → Army Museum highlights
Lunch (1-2 PM): Café de l'Esplanade with dome view
Afternoon (2-5 PM): WWI Wing → Courtyard cannons → Museum shop
Full-Day Historical Immersion
Morning: Napoleon's Tomb → Ancient Armor Collection → Relief Maps Museum
Afternoon: WWI & WWII Wings → Military Chapel → Changing of Guard
Evening: Dinner at Les Cocottes → Night photos of illuminated dome
Three-Day Paris Military Heritage
Day 1: Les Invalides full day → Napoleon's Tomb & all museums
Day 2: Arc de Triomphe → Tomb of Unknown Soldier → Military Museum at Vincennes
Day 3: Versailles (Hall of Mirrors, War Room) → Military Academy area
Half-Day Military History Focus
Full-Day Historical Immersion
Three-Day Military Heritage Tour
The 7th Arrondissement Military Walk
I spent a day exploring the military heritage of Paris's 7th arrondissement, starting at Les Invalides. After visiting Napoleon's Tomb, I walked to the École Militaire, France's military academy where Napoleon studied. The elegant 18th-century buildings faced the Champ de Mars, where cadets still drill. Next was the Musée de l'Ordre de la Libération (within Invalides), dedicated to the French Resistance. Lunch was at a café popular with military families. In the afternoon, I visited the American Church in Paris, which served as a hub for WWI American volunteers. Then to the Pont de l'Alma tunnel (Princess Diana memorial) and the Flame of Liberty, a replica of the Statue of Liberty's torch. The day ended at the Musée du Quai Branly, whose collections include military artifacts from French colonies. Walking back to Invalides as the dome lit up, I realized how this neighborhood tells France's military story from monarchy to empire to republic, from colonial wars to world wars to modern peacekeeping.